Cylinder #2 Not Firing

[pgilliam1]

I can't imagine what that 1X2 is for?

The piece of wood slides through the cam chain and prevents it from slipping back into the motor.

There are undoubtedly many of those "helpful tricks" that I would need, could use, for this operation and as simple as they seem, they can be elusive.

[pgilliam1]

I couldn't find anyone with a bore scope and no one around here rents one that I called, so I bought a PC USB based one off of eBay with a 45 degree mirror attachment so I can see the valves. It will take a week or so to ship here, so I'm stuck in the mud until it arrives. That should give me enough time to thoroughly read through the manual and get my confidence back - I hope.
Update, with pics I hope, to follow.
Thanks Again -

[EMS]

There are undoubtedly many of those "helpful tricks" that I would need, could use, for this operation and as simple as they seem, they can be elusive.

You are reading the service manual, which is the best thing to do, and many of these "tricks" are mentioned in there, or at least cautions given. Go slow, take it easy, and if you are unsure about something, ask before. We are all here to help!

[pgilliam1]

There are undoubtedly many of those "helpful tricks" that I would need, could use, for this operation and as simple as they seem, they can be elusive.

We are all here to help!

Great comfort through this learning operation! THX -

[EMS]

One other thing that may not be mentioned in the manual: When you tilt the engine make sure to disconnect the oil pressure sender cable before. It may be too short and may rip.

[pgilliam1]

One other thing that may not be mentioned in the manual: When you tilt the engine make sure to disconnect the oil pressure sender cable before. It may be too short and may rip.

Will do! THX Again -

[pgilliam1]

So, while I'm waiting for the bore scope, I thought I'd try and troubleshoot the lack of spark in cylinder #4.
The #4 plug wire has the same resistance as the #6 plug wire, so I'm assuming it's OK
I tested the coil resistance and they all test the same at 504 ohms at the 6-P coupler.
I moved to testing the spark units. Starting on page 17-4 of the manual and continuing on 17-5, I have 12VDC on the bl/y, pink and yellow wires of the spark unit couplers, with the 6-P coupler disconnected and the ignition switch ON. When I apply a ground to the wires at the 6-P coupler, the voltage does drop to around 1.2vdc on all spark units. However, when I apply the ground to the pink wire of the 6-P coupler (which is the 3-4 spark unit) I can hear a distinct click coming from around the coil (it's hard to tell). That click is NOT heard when ground is applied to the other wires. I can't imagine what that is or means???
I should add a note here, that this bike has a stator kit on it and the OEM voltage regulator and couplers are not in use. The amp and voltage gauges work as they should when riding.

[EMS]

So, while I'm waiting for the bore scope, I thought I'd try and troubleshoot the lack of spark in cylinder #4.
The #4 plug wire has the same resistance as the #6 plug wire, so I'm assuming it's OK
.

You are not comparing the No 4 and No 6 wires, because they run from the same coil..???

[pgilliam1]

So, while I'm waiting for the bore scope, I thought I'd try and troubleshoot the lack of spark in cylinder #4.
The #4 plug wire has the same resistance as the #6 plug wire, so I'm assuming it's OK
.

You are not comparing the No 4 and No 6 wires, because they run from the same coil..???

I was just comparing the #4 to the #6 plug wire for testing purposes. As I looked at the manual diagrams those wires do not run from the same coil. Coils feed (left to right) cylinders: 1/6 - 3/4 - 2/5. I assume the plug wires should all have similar ohm resistances? I'm wondering if I should buy a replacement coil since the spark units seem to test good?

[pgilliam1]

Onward:
I tested the ignition unit by touching a screwdriver to the rotor and pulse generator contact and I have good spark to #4, #5 and #6 spark plugs.
Does that mean it's fixed? I'm lost -

PS: I inspected the areas around the spark plugs with an inspection mirror before taking them out (again). I found a piece of tar covered gravel at the base of #5 spark plug. It would not move with compressed air, so I had to dislodge it with a pic from above (with the gas tank removed you can barely see down into the head cavity of #5 plug) and pluck it out with some goo on the end of a long screwdriver. What a PITA!

[Sharpie66]

I ride because every now and then I experience moments of bliss that I don't feel doing anything else but riding. I don't get those feelings from every bike I ride, but I have had them when riding this bike and I really look forward to those moments.

+1 to that.

[pgilliam1]

honda cyl 4 pic3.jpg

Update with pics:

So I got the bore scope and went inside the cylinder for a look. The bottom pic is of the top of the piston (the silver area in the center was probably from me slightly scraping the surface of the piston with a small screwdriver trying to dislodge whatever I could), the first and second pictures were taken with a 45 degree mirror attachment looking at the head and valves. I don't know what the object is but it looks like a small metal band clamp, but how could that get in there? It is stuck to the head and looks to be pinched by a valve. The curved lines you are seeing in the pics are the valves. None of the valves look to be open at all, even the one that appears to have the object pinched.
I'm still on the fence about doing this work because I've never taken the cams out/off of an engine. I have timed engines when I've replaced timing chains/belts and adjusted valves but that's about the extent of my engine depth. I look forward to your thoughts and will update this thread as I progress. Thanks Again -

[tevan]

Could you send me a link or item number of the scope you bought? thanks

[pgilliam1]

Could you send me a link or item number of the scope you bought? thanks

Here's the link to the scope:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301183503152?ss ... 1497.l2649

Keep in mind you need a PC/laptop/tablet that runs Windows XP or 7. The 45 degree mirror and adjustable LED's are a must for this.

On further inspection the object is more likely a small, badly bent, bolt - UHG! However, it looks as if it missed the valves. I know, the heads gotta come off.

[daves79x]

I think you would be quite capable of removing the head and fixing the problem. You can do all that w/out removing the engine. I wouldn't expect much more than a bent valve or 2 and you could have that repaired easily. You might be able to fish out the foreign object by picking around so you'll know at least what it was before tearing it apart. The shop manual is excellent for this job.

Dave