Prolink Fork In Early Model Frame & Steering Damper

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alimey4u2
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Post by alimey4u2 »

Amazing what one can do with a pillar drill & a bench sander... :wink:

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cbxtacy
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Post by cbxtacy »

If you're really interested in keeping a stock appearance, I can send you a set of 82 CBX wheels in exchange for those inferior British wheels currently gracing your CBX.
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Post by alimey4u2 »

Thank you for your very kind offer George but I'm afraid I will have to decline.... :lol:
Still, you may save me some money as the wheels are going back to DYMAG this winter for refurbish & inspection.... :wink:
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Post by alimey4u2 »

Finally installed.... :roll:

I wanted it to not limit the steering lock left & right & be adjustable whilst riding. Sounded like simple requirements but It took some working out.... :eyecrazy:

The different holes ( blanked off) in theory allow different ratings, plus is was easier to do one time... :wink:

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Post by cbxtacy »

now that is what I'm talking about.
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Post by alimey4u2 »

OK, Parts for the damper installation...

"Lockhart/Phillips steering damper ( the longest stroke available.)

"Harris" fork connector.

1" thick, custom made bracket mounted to "Rotorwoman" alloy engine hangers. (Not sure what alloy she used for these but it's mighty tough.)
I'm sure anyone could weld or braze a bracket onto the stock hangers or frame to suit though....
Other bits like rod end couplings sourced either in Mcmaster Carr or Midwest Control Products. 12mm "Oilite" bearings ( bearingboys.uk )shrunk into the alloy bracket to form a gimble for the damper body. I may upgrade to ball bearings if wear rate proves necessary. "bearingboys" have suitable mini bearings that are inexpensive & will suit.



Function is excellent, hydraulic setting on low for town riding & being able to adjust to suit conditions.
Action ( rate) is also controlled by the connecting angle. This allows light damping at center & becomes more aggressive ( proportional) as you get off center.

No limit to steering lock both left & right ( just... :wink: )
Last edited by alimey4u2 on Fri Jul 18, 2008 9:34 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Post by alimey4u2 »

cbxtacy wrote:now that is what I'm talking about.
Sun shone for 1 hour today George... 8)
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Post by cbxtacy »

and the sun was shining here between 1pm and 2pm also Larry. :bigthumb:
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Post by steve murdoch icoa #5322 »

Great looking set-up, Larry!
Does the custom bracket mount to the hanger itself or does it use the stock frame holes and a longer bolt?

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Post by alimey4u2 »

steve murdoch icoa #5322 wrote:Great looking set-up, Larry!
Does the custom bracket mount to the hanger itself or does it use the stock frame holes and a longer bolt?
Thanks Steve, I mounted it to the top of the hanger itself with 2 X 8 mm allen head bolts (recessed, hidden behind rubber bungs). There is a flat area on the "Rotorwoman" hangers to facilitate this. Position is critical not to hit the tank & limit lock which requires all of the damper length, save about 2 mm.
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Post by cbxtacy »

Larry, yours looks finished, mine looks crude. A few hours with my sawzall and a drill and I produced this pile of bracketry:



2647

that does this:

2648

and I'll probably do the same for my other X's. :D

The nice thing about mine is it clears fairings on pro links and big oil coolers.
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Post by alimey4u2 »

Great idea George, how much travel (lock to lock) does the damper rod move ?
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Post by Don #6141 »

It doesn't appear that it has all that much travel, from full lock to full lock . . . . and it looks like the flimsy outboard bracket with it's single mounting bolt to the engine hanger would flex away most of the tiny amount of travel he does have in the critical 'straight down the road' mode - I can't see that dampener being very effective

The difference between that outboard bracket and yours is more than between night and day . . . . I think you correctly assumed that ANY flex there would negate most of the gain Larry

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Post by alimey4u2 »

I do like Georges "idea", in Georges words, "bracketry a little crude". With a longer lever travel ( arc) at the headstock base bracket & more robust fittings I think it shows promise. From a purist point of view, I would "possibly" struggle with it shadowing the oil cooler but that may be avoided with modifications on the same theme.
No need for me to change but those with restrictive fairings, this "may" be the way to go, with revisions....
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Post by cbxtacy »

To answer all your questions about how it works

1. It uses the whole stroke of the damper side to side

2. the cooler is not in the airstream so placing a small obstruction in front of it does no real harm

3. It takes very little friction for a damper to be effective, even with the damper on the stiffest setting there is no flex in the bracket

It's ugly, effective, and simple to fabricate. I went to Home Depot and a couple hours later, the damper was working. I used to have it mounted similar to Larry's (you can still see the fork connector still on the forks) but it was too close to the tank and there was too much side to side movement.
one out of four people in this country is mentally unbalanced
think of your three closest friends, if they're okay then
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