82 Prolink Rear Shock

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

Don't know if they are still selling them but https://www.sixcenter.nl/ was selling a bushing replacement kit if you find yours are shot.
viewtopic.php?t=8174

[Larry Zimmer]

thanks, Steve.

[oldbikerdude]

Steve, you must have been reading my mind, knowing what I was going to find after pulling the swingarm off yesterday.

[oldbikerdude]

Had to make a tool yesterday to get the lock nut off. Had an extra socket just a touch smaller than the OD of the bore, and went to town to hog material off with the angle grinder leaving the 4 lugs. Left them just long enough to fit into the opening, Not very pretty, but did the job to loosen off the lock nut.

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[oldbikerdude]

The collar and bushings on the swingarm still measure in spec, but will try to get my hands on the kit for future replacement.
Had to use a bearing puller to get the swingarm bushings off. Cleaned up the bores on the swingarm, looking good.

IMG_6062.jpg

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Had an issue with the right side connector bushes, could not get them out even with the bearing puller. The left side came out no problem.

IMG_6057.JPG

Going to get the heat gun out tomorrow to try and heat them up and then use the bearing puller to get them off.

Has anyone tried to reverse the bolt, so the nut goes on the muffler side.

IMG_6056.jpg

This way you could get the connector rod off without muffler removal.
Would probably need to trim some length off the bolt a bit so that it clears the muffler but there is excess length there anyway.

[oldbikerdude]

I think I may have answered my own question, that the nut is welded onto the bracket, will look at it closer tomorrow.

[daves79x]

You don't really need to remove the black plastic bushings. Just clean them up and the pins the best you can (the pins will show wear), re-grease with moly-heavy grease. Grease the needle bearings in the left side of the swingarm. Best you can do with what's available, but it will make a huge difference. This needs done every 10K miles, but for most of us, that's the rest of our lives.

Dave

[oldbikerdude]

Thanks Dave, was thinking to pull out replace the bearings as long as the swingarm is off until I read this morning some of the old, 2014, threads about the 2 unobtanium non standard custom bearings on the RHS, maybe even the unobtanium needle bearing on the LS.
Has anyone made any progress on getting new bearings or grinding down the slightly larger outside diameter standard bearings.

[Larry Zimmer]

The collar and bushings on the swingarm still measure in spec, but will try to get my hands on the kit for future replacement.
Had to use a bearing puller to get the swingarm bushings off. Cleaned up the bores on the swingarm, looking good.

IMG_6062.jpg
IMG_6063.jpg

Had an issue with the right side connector bushes, could not get them out even with the bearing puller. The left side came out no problem.
IMG_6057.JPG

Going to get the heat gun out tomorrow to try and heat them up and then use the bearing puller to get them off.

Has anyone tried to reverse the bolt, so the nut goes on the muffler side. IMG_6056.jpg
This way you could get the connector rod off without muffler removal.
Would probably need to trim some length off the bolt a bit so that it clears the muffler but there is excess length there anyway.

I did just that several years ago -- reverse the bolt insertion for those 'dog bone' bolts. That's easy for Honda to do on the assembly line. Not so easy in the filed. Insert the bolt from the inside so that the nuts are on the outside. You can, then, use a box wrench to hold the nut and torque the bolt from the head side. Next time, you don't have to drop the exhaust to get the bolt out. I did not have to shorten any bolts or do any changes. Incidentally, check all the seals on those bushings. Mine were all dried and cracked. That's what causes any bushing failures. Several of mine were about 0.0005" worn.

[daves79x]

Don’t try to remove the swingarm bearings. If you further damage them, there are no replacements.

Dave

[oldbikerdude]

Dave, I definitely will NOT remove those bearings.
Was only wondering if someone actually figured out if any other bearings could be used with modifications, as per the info I gleaned from the old bearing thread. Also saw on that thread that the needle bearing may still be available, but haven't looked further.
Anyone know if it is available?

Larry, thanks for confirming about the reversing the nut on the dogbone bolt. Will definitely make this change.

[Larry Zimmer]

I think the needle bearing is commonly available. Basically, a commodity bearing. However, that ball bearing combo on the right side is one odd duck!! It is no where a commercial size. Why Honda did that is beyond me. There are several commercial bearings that would work if Honda had just change some dimensions ever so little. I talked with a couple bearing suppliers in my past life (NSK, SKF/INA). They were puzzled. SO, as Dave said, DO NOT attempt to remove it. No need to. Any swingarm disassembly, just grease and close! Do be certain to get the preload/torque correct. That ball-bearing combo is the lateral thrust reaction point.

[oldbikerdude]

So the swingarm is clean, moly greased the roller bearing.
Tried again with some heat on the dogbone to remove the plastic bushes with the bearing removal tool, but still couldn't get them off, so they are staying on. Didn't want to really reef on them only to break them. Cleaned up all the old grease and added fresh moly.
Swingarm is ready to go back on now, but getting the shock fitted first.

Some questions for you guru's that have installed the IKON.

IKON Info card says if possible to put body of shock in the upper position, as shown in pic. Is this the correct orientation?

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The selector switch 1-4 is facing the RHS, does this make sense or should it be facing the LHS.
Trying to decide if position 1 or 2 is best. I'm about 155 lbs, and always riding solo.

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Question for Nils, the spring preload on this shock, measures almost 50 mm (to start of thread) or just a hair over 52mm to top of shock body.
Is this the correct standard preload? Just want to be sure before I start assembling.

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I put the shock on with shock body in lower position just for comparison sake, but then the adjuster 1-4 is on top.

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Thanks always for the input.

[JoeInTUS]

We (Restocycle) normally install the shock with the adjuster at the top facing left. “2” is our recommended starting point for damping.

The preload you measured is how they come from the factory and we find that to be a good starting point. That said you are a little lighter than most so I will let Nils give you his opinion on backing off the preload.

[daves79x]

If that is one of the last iterations of the Ikon shock, it should be about perfect for you at setting #1, provided the shock was not built for a 250 lb guy. I put the adjuster up as you show in the last pic. It's easy enough to get to then from under the left side cover.

Dave