The International CBX Owners Association

My pulsar has 2 good electrodes that are raised out of their respective blocks by about 2 mm. The rear one (the one you line up the rotor to time the ignition) is worn away and is flat against it's block. Will this affect how the bike runs and if so where is the best place to source a replacement. Thanks Ross.

Hello Ross!

Interesting. this is the first time I hear of somebody having to replace the unit due to wear....Did the rotor make contact during operation?
In any case..I also don't know if these things are still available from Honda, but Louis Mintrone at usedcbxparts.com can most certainly provide a good used one.

In detail, I'll let Dave handle this one. BUT, they should not touch. Something is misaligned.

Rotor does not touch any of the electrodes and the engine runs fine except for some low rev hesitation which I believe to be blocked idle jets.

Not sure what model you have, the Prolinks need different ones, but here is one for the early models. Don't know how it compares with Louis' price. He may give you a better deal:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CB ... 4838f8fa7d

The pulsers are adjustable on the backing plate, but it is not advisable to move them unless they have become misaligned. My guess is someone did that on your 1-6 unit and it got worn off. What is the clearance now? All three should have equal gaps as the rotor tooth passes, something close to a spark plug gap. Maybe .020-.025 inch. It is not hard to realign the 1-6 unit and set the gap, since you are using the 'F' mark on the crank, but you need to degree the other two if they have been moved. Make sure there is not excessive radial play on your advancer shaft.

Dave

If you are still in need of a Pulsar unit i have them and it is about 40% cheaper then the one that was posted here. Email me at www.usedcbxparts.com Thanks, Louis

daves79x wrote:The pulsers are adjustable on the backing plate, but it is not advisable to move them unless they have become misaligned. My guess is someone did that on your 1-6 unit and it got worn off. What is the clearance now? All three should have equal gaps as the rotor tooth passes, something close to a spark plug gap. Maybe .020-.025 inch. It is not hard to realign the 1-6 unit and set the gap, since you are using the 'F' mark on the crank, but you need to degree the other two if they have been moved. Make sure there is not excessive radial play on your advancer shaft.

Dave

1&6 has a gap of 35 thou, 2&5 18 thou and 3&4 25 thou.
Am I right in assuming that such variations will impact performance and that it's time to source a new one?
Thanks
Ross