The International CBX Owners Association

I just installed a set of 55 watt running lights on my 82, normally the volt meter reads about 13 but when i turn the running lights on it reads right at 11, I checked the voltage with my meter it reads 14.7 with the lights off 14.3 when I turn them on. So the stock gauge reading 11 shouldn't be a problem right? Also the wires going to the voltage regulator get really hot, not to the point of melting but if you pinch them hard you can't hang on very long I checked and cleaned the connections they still get hot is that ok or is there a problem?..... the wires got hot with the running light on or off but when the lights are on they get hot quicker

Checking with a voltmeter doesn't really do much. You should use an amp-meter to get a decent diagnosis, Dan. What does the stock voltmeter indicate when you rev the motor above 3,000??
Where did you wire the running lights into? Maybe you should increase the wire gauge?? Too thin of a wire = too much resistance = increase in heat

I ran the lights right to the battery with the wires that came with the lights ...that wire doesn't get hot , the 3 yellow and the black and white wires to the voltage regulator get hot i just went for a 100 mile ride did not turn the running lights on and the wires were hot if you pinch then hard you can only hold on for about 5 seconds, they are not melting or discolored just hot the voltage regulator is really hot too as hot as the wires

Dan, Did you run the lights on separate wiring, directly to the battery via their own switch ??

yes totally seperate to the battery with a fuse and a switch

My insulation shows indications of getting warm but the amount of heat you describe does seem alarming. I wonder if this is normal... ??

I have had the connectors under the right side cover melt on both my CBX's. I have replaced the connectors.

thanks zr1 I thought i was over the load limit the way i have it figured

headlight 55 watts
tail 27
turn signal running lights 8 each
instrment lights 3.4 each

that adds up to 110 watts , then add 2 55 watt running lights that doubles the stock load

How would running the light on a different circut with a relay reduce the total load?

dan1995 wrote:How would running the light on a different circut with a relay reduce the total load?

If you had it directly connected to the battery ( not using the wiring loom) it would only reduce the load across the "switch"....

All excellent points, in reality the "system" was designed for the as built load, increasing that load ( in any way) would possibly put the "system" above its design limits ? Thanks 415ZR1, I never thought along those lines....

Thanks guys for all the help...probably a good thing i didn't go with the grip warmers and electric vest

All is not lost Dan, as 415ZR1 so rightfully said, If you reduce the "as built load" ( LED & HID or lower watt bulb conversions) you may well keep within the design limits....May be easier ( not cheaper) to go with ( convert to ) HID running lamps...

I just put them on because i like the look they are just little projector lights , I'll probably never turn them on and if i do ie will only be for a few minutes at a time, I will however switch out the brake lights and running light to led's

Good thread, I love these threads that get the ole grey matter stirring......

415ZR1 wrote:Add a Jung or Aussie style alternator and get another 90 watts or so.

Don't forget, if your supply is ample for your extra demand, you still need to have the ancilliary components capable of handling that extra load. In the case of the Jung Et Al (which have their own rectifiers) the as built wiring "may" be the limiting factor .....I dunno ??