The International CBX Owners Association

As part of my frame off resto of my '79, I did the usual alternator services. Went all out and gave it a brand new clutch (while they were still available).

The focus originally was on getting the rebuilt engine/carbs to work as I wanted. After that I'm working on the left over problems. One of them is the alternator output.

If I didn't know better I would have sworn that the clutch wasn't working. Took the alternator appart. Made sure all of the washers were there and checked the spring.

Noticed the new clutch has what I would consider "unusual" wear. I would have thought it would wear evenly but it dosen't look like it.

I guess new replacement clutches need to "seat"??

Did the alternator r/r include bearings? If not, shame on you. They're cheap and easy to replace while yer in there. If you don't want to spend the $ for genuine Honda bearings, go to the local autoparts store and get 6201 and 6203 bearings. Same as used in many automotive alternators. Throw a new seal on there too. 'Bout $4.00 from Honda, maybe a bit more at that same auto parts store. It's a standard size too.

Don't cheap out and use old bearings, then toast a new set of clutches. You can put in new bearings every brush change for less than 1 set of clutch plates.

Rick Pope wrote:Did the alternator r/r include bearings? If not, shame on you. They're cheap and easy to replace while yer in there. If you don't want to spend the $ for genuine Honda bearings, go to the local autoparts store and get 6201 and 6203 bearings. Same as used in many automotive alternators. Throw a new seal on there too. 'Bout $4.00 from Honda, maybe a bit more at that same auto parts store. It's a standard size too.

Don't cheap out and use old bearings, then toast a new set of clutches. You can put in new bearings every brush change for less than 1 set of clutch plates.

The alternator has all of the goodies. New bearings, seals and brushes. The bearings siezed up on the previous owner and fried the clutch and the electrical system. Don't ask what needed to be done to not only get it to run but to bring it back to original. Its a long, sad story.

For some reason, the picture didn't come through the first time around. Now I can see what you mean about the clutches seating. I've not experienced a clutch wearing that way. The surface is supposed to be flat so it contacts fully across the face. It looks like yours is only making contact near the center, which would give it much less "grip".

I'd try using a straight edge to see if the clutches are really flat.

Rick Pope wrote:I'd try using a straight edge to see if the clutches are really flat.

Believe it or not, I did this before installation.................

Strange one this Chris but I think it's to with the rotational speed of the plates. My hypothesis ( here I go again... ) is that the oil is being centrifuged to the outer circumference, starving the inner. Instead of radial slots the plates would possibly do better with circumferential grooves or spirals......

I'm gonna pay attention to my charge and battery strength for a while and see what happens.

Chris, did you remove the ruler from the face of the clutch before installation?

cbxtacy wrote:Chris, did you remove the ruler from the face of the clutch before installation?

Is that like the surgeon that leaves the operating tools in the patient?

One thing to do is radius the oiling groves a bit, nothing radical just enough to remove the sharp 90% angle and remove any burrs that might be there. Finish up the clutches with a few circular passes on some emery cloth on a flat surface until the clutch surfaces are flat, check it with a straight edge.

Jeff Bennetts wrote:One thing to do is radius the oiling groves a bit, nothing radical just enough to remove the sharp 90% angle and remove any burrs that might be there, finish up the clutches with a few circular passes on some emery cloth on a flat surface.

No expert but to me that makes perfect sense as the sharp edges would tend to scrape the oil off......

Might I offer this....

http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorc ... lutch.html

Thank you Mr Nixon.
Simple, direct info that even i can understand.

Mike Nixon wrote:Might I offer this....

http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorc ... lutch.html

Thanks Mike you and your website are a great resource. :)

I've got a problem with the battery not charging on my 82 cbx.

Battery is good, checked brushes and they are good. Was trying to do the test procedures on page 16-12 of the Honda shop manual on the voltage regulator/rectifier. I believe by the readings I'm getting the voltage regulator/rectifier tests that it is bad.

Two questions.

Does anyone have a non-complicated test procedure for the voltage regulator/rectifier. And somewhere I had read that when the voltage regulator/rectifier goes bad the rotor usually failed first.

I'm open to any ideas to check, really do not want to take it to the shop.

I guess I should have said this is a 12,000 mile bike.

Thanks