Wiring Diagram
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- Amazing Poster
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Wiring Diagram
I'm looking for a wiring diagram for a late model.
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- ICOA Member
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- Amazing Poster
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I was able to find a set of euro X switches for my project bike. They use the standard electrical pins and the late model looks like it uses mini pins.
I also have a spare early model wiring harness and will switch to this harness to clean up some wiring issues and make using the euro switches that much easier.
Anybody have any thoughts as to what hidden problems I will have in switching to an early model harness? I was thinking I might have problems with the starter magnetic switch. I won't have the airshock so the pressure sensor wiring will not be an issue.
Any ideas/warnings are appreciated.
I also have a spare early model wiring harness and will switch to this harness to clean up some wiring issues and make using the euro switches that much easier.
Anybody have any thoughts as to what hidden problems I will have in switching to an early model harness? I was thinking I might have problems with the starter magnetic switch. I won't have the airshock so the pressure sensor wiring will not be an issue.
Any ideas/warnings are appreciated.
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Chris: The Euro switches have the same connector plugs as the U.S. switches. The early CBX-Z and CBX-A switches have the large white plug that connects inside the headlight and the Prolink switches have the small red plug that connects in the wiring box in the fairing. Because Europe had low bars also for Prolinks, they have switches that are like the "Sport kit" switches with shorter wires and top exit for throttle cables. Also, the European CB900/1100F switches are "Sport Kit" switches and they have a small plug. They work fine with any U.S. harness. I have a set on my 81 and the only difference is, I can now switch the light off when the bike is running
Right now I can't think of anything that you may incur when using an early harness on a late model. You addressed the rear shock. There are some pigtails for additional instruments on the fairing bikes, but that should be it. Some of the connectors for relais and solenoids may be different and I thought the regulator connections were not the same.
Right now I can't think of anything that you may incur when using an early harness on a late model. You addressed the rear shock. There are some pigtails for additional instruments on the fairing bikes, but that should be it. Some of the connectors for relais and solenoids may be different and I thought the regulator connections were not the same.
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- Amazing Poster
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Thanks Mike,EMS wrote:Chris: The Euro switches have the same connector plugs as the U.S. switches. The early CBX-Z and CBX-A switches have the large white plug that connects inside the headlight and the Prolink switches have the small red plug that connects in the wiring box in the fairing. Because Europe had low bars also for Prolinks, they have switches that are like the "Sport kit" switches with shorter wires and top exit for throttle cables. Also, the European CB900/1100F switches are "Sport Kit" switches and they have a small plug. They work fine with any U.S. harness. I have a set on my 81 and the only difference is, I can now switch the light off when the bike is running
Right now I can't think of anything that you may incur when using an early harness on a late model. You addressed the rear shock. There are some pigtails for additional instruments on the fairing bikes, but that should be it. Some of the connectors for relais and solenoids may be different and I thought the regulator connections were not the same.
when I get the wiring diagram from you, I'll make further comparisons before I make the switch. Should be fun.
- cbxtacy
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I wish it were that easy. :)EMS wrote:Tell me He forgot to flip the cut-off switch into the "On" position
We actually just jumped the magnetic switch and it fired surprisingly easy with some starting fluid (after an oil change).
I'm going to switch to complete early model wiring harness, early model mag switch and modern style main fuse. This will make wiring in turn signals and the euro control switches, that much easier.
- cbxtacy
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Chris, I've been thinking about getting a fuse box from a CBR and wiring it into my turbo bike and eliminating the fuse box on the fork clamp. I could mount the box under the seat somewhere. That would simplify things on the forks and they (the CBR's) use blade fuses.
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I could probably mount te fuses somewhere under the fairing. The only reason would be if I were going to customize the top bridge for handlebars.cbxtacy wrote:Chris, I've been thinking about getting a fuse box from a CBR and wiring it into my turbo bike and eliminating the fuse box on the fork clamp. I could mount the box under the seat somewhere. That would simplify things on the forks and they (the CBR's) use blade fuses.
I'm going to try to keep some type of clip ons for now.