No power when key is turned on

[Bill Kemp]

Hello everyone:

I was fortunate yesterday to purchase a 1980 CBX with 8952 km on it. It was from an estate sale and I was advised the last time the bike was on the road was 1988.

I have changed the oil (even though the old oil looked like new oil) and have put some penetrating oil in each cylindergetting it ready to move the pistons in a few days.

The issue I am having is that when I put the key to the park position the rear light goes on so that tells me that power is getting to the key.

However

When I put it in the on position there is no power at all going to any of the lights, horn, signals etc etc.

I have even opened up the fuse box below the ignition and checked for power there but there is nothing. The fuses all look great. The main 30 amp fuse is fine with power on each side of it as well so it is not that fuse.

I am thinking that perhaps the ignition switch might be the issue.

Any opinions would be appreciated.

I will try and post a few pictures of the little gem.

Thanks in advance

Bill Kemp

Ps. You will see in the photos that I have removed all the brake calipers as they were stuck and I could not roll the bike. Time for a brake cleaning and rebuild

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

Nice score. That is a beautiful bike.
Surprised with the low usage of your bike that the ignition switch would be worn but they can be repaired or cheaply replaced.
http://www.cbxclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... tch#p96977

Welcome to the site.

[Bill Kemp]

I am not sure it is the switch.

It is just a possible scenario.

I was asking for advice in hopes someone more familiar with these bikes might know what is wrong before I have to tear apart a switch. I might be something silly that I am missing.

Bill

[daves79x]

It almost has to be the switch. You can stab the incoming power to the switch with a voltmeter probe without taking anything apart. The switches can almost always be rehabilitated. They are tricky to get apart without breaking the 3 little tabs.

This will turn out to be a relatively minor problem. Have you checked the condition of the gas tank inside? Have you turned gas into the carbs yet? Those will be your biggest issue to resolve and you are likely looking at a complete rebuild.

Those look like Lester wheels - pretty rare on a CBX. Good stock '80 wheels are not hard to find if you are so inclined.

It looks like your bike is a Marysville build. Red Marysville bikes are pretty rare. It also has gloss black side covers, something that's been debated for a long time.

You have found a pretty rare bike in fantastic condition. Do yourself a favor and get a copy of the FSM before tearing into much more. Lots of info here about literally anything you run into.

Dave

[Bill Kemp]

The tank is pretty gummy inside but there does not appear to be any rust.

As for the carbs I will pull them off the bike and do a thorough cleaning in the ultrasonic

I restored a 1975 CB750 last year and it turned out great. It and my little 1975 CB550 are the bikes I ride all the time

The CB750 I tore down to the frame had all the black parts powder coated and repainted the engine once I did a top end rebuild. I had all the chrome re done and ordered a set of pipes from Yamiya in Japan to top it off. The original pipes I have but there are some holes in them unfortunately.

It is a great bike that turns lots of heads

I did nothing to the 550 except put it all back together as the owner was going to make it into a cafe and realized he was over his head.

I will try to post couple of photos of those bikes in a few hours.

[Bill Kemp]

Photos

[NobleHops]

WOW, great score indeed. I have not laid eyes on a CBX with Lesters either, I think they look great!

There are no shortcuts to be enjoyed in getting these back to great running condition, and it's highly unlikely to happen without a full carburetor rebuild at minimum, but there's more. This thread is a compilation of a lot of good advice, but don't hesitate to ask any questions either. We like nothing more than to feel like we helped get another one of these back on the road:

http://www.cbxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=11043

The manuals are on the site here:

http://www.cbxclub.com/manuals

[NobleHops]

P.S. Dave McMunn (daves79x, above) is outstanding at the carburetor service, if he has the spare cycles to take yours on.

[Bill Kemp]

Well I fixed it

I took the switch out of the bike cleaned the contacts with 800 grit paper. A little electrical spray and she is all working now. Power to everything and all signals, lights, and horn work

The best part is that I did not have to take the switch apart. Just a cleaning if the contacts fixed everything.

Now to put it all back together again.

Then start on lowering the engine to remove the carbs

I actually like doing the carbs. Once they look spanky clean it is a joy

Thanks for the help and replies about the bike

Once it is up and running fully I will get back to you

Regards

Bill

[Bill Kemp]

Here are some pictures of the vin and engine number

[Larry Zimmer]

NICE bike, Bill. Good on the 'fix'. Maybe just start it and see how it runs before doing the carb job. Might be a 'surprise' for you. If it were put away 'dry', I would think no issues. Maybe a bottle of Techron through the system. She's a 'looker'!

[Bill Kemp]

I tilted the engine down and removed the air box and then the carbs

I took one bowl off of a carb just to have a look at it.

Yup. It is got old gas in it and varnish goo

I will strip the carbs all apart tomorrow and put things in the ultrasonic

I will have to order a bunch of parts as well. Mostly the rubber stuff but I will have to see how the float seals are

I try to re use all of the original brass pieces as the quality of original Honda stuff can't be beat.

Check out the old fuel in the carbs

Bill

[daves79x]

I must caution you to only use Viton o-rings. There many pitfalls in doing CBX carbs that you just do not run into with the others you've done. You'll likely need new float valves - use only Keihin valves and the original seats. The joint rubbers will also likely need replaced. Randakk makes an excellent comprehensive kit for these parts (joint rubbers and vent Ts are available separately, but are often out of stock). Don't get in a big hurry, your time waiting on parts will likely be spent cleaning out the tank.

Dave

[Larry Zimmer]

Unfortunately, she got put away wet! Yucko! Definitely as Dave said. You only want to do this once!

[NobleHops]

Do not fail to pull the idle jets. It’s way easier than folks make it out to be.