oh-oh stripped the threads

[donp]

I have just re-built the alternater with new bearings, clutch plates spring and seals with the help of postings and articles from past cbx expresses. However with my back against the wall feet pushing agsainst the very stiff spring pressure on the cover and some one tightening the bolts we have manages to strip threads in two of the aluminum cast holes. Does any one know what type and where to get inserts for this? Any advise on an easy way of installing the cover would be appreciated as well.

Thanks

Don

[broook]

Wow that doesn`t sound right to me. I replaced the bearings and spring in mine a while ago and every year remove it to check the brushes but don`t have that much pressure. Must have something put back wrong. I would check to make sure the shaft is going into the outer bearing and not catching on the inner race. Shouldn`t be that much pressure.

[donp]

Thanks Broook

I am going to re assemble the alternator to make sure everything is in its proper place. When I had put the alternator in place the two clutch plates were touching before the bolts were at the threads and it took an enormous amount of pressure just to get the threads to catch. Something must be wrong. In any case I still need to find some inserts such as heli-coil to re thread the aluminium case. Any idea where to get the right size and make.

[Jim-Jim]

I don't think you can get the outer cover bolted to the inner cover if the rotor shaft isn't seating into the outer bearing correctly but I agree, there is something definitely wrong with that alternator. You should be able to engage all three long bolts into the housing threads before encountering spring resistance -and- it shouldn't take 'back against the wall' pressure to draw the unit in. Just how long is that spring? How many washers do you have on the 'driving' clutch plate? If the alternator covers bolt together OK, with the 'driven' clutch plate mounted properly, then the problem must be on the 'driving' side. Check carefully, there is something wrong somewhere. When you took it off, did it 'pop' off under pressure - it shouldn't have; you should have just lost spring pressure BEFORE the unit dis-engaged. Like 'Brook' said, lots of guys have replaced brushes and the alternators just come off and go back on - no problem. Just a thought, but if there is another 'X' close by, see if you can see how the alternator comes off/on and compare to yours.

When you find the problem, let us know so we can file the info away and not make the same mistake (if you did).

Luck.

[donp]

Thanks jim-Jim

The spring measures 1.156" the thrust washer is .060" the plastic washer is .079". When the spring and washers are in place the spline clutch plate hole is about .42" to the shaft end from the inside face of the clutch plate.

I am going to make sure the bearing and oil seal are seated properly next.

[George]

You can find very good inserts here: http://www.timesert.com/index.html

[Jim-Jim]

Your spring is slightly shorter than stock, which measures 1.2". So this means the spring would have only slightly less tension (NOT bad) than stock. You definitely should not have to press extra hard due to the spring.

[george g]

You should be able to find the heli coils at UAP NAPA.

[donp]

An update to the stripped threads. I found that whoever had the bike in the past had probably stripped the threads somewhat as the two of the three bolts were not original and looked fairly beat up. I found the Time Sert kit but it was way too expensive ($145.00 Canadian 105.00 US). For the time being I just re tapped the holes with a 1/4" tap and used 1/4" bolts until I find someone with the Time Sert tools to bring it back to original. The Time Sert method is probably the best way to go in the future. Its seems much better than Heli Coils.

Using the new bolts and tightening them up one turn at a time each the cover went on smoothly.

Thanks for the help everyone.