No power output to bike

[Patriotprop]

I rebuilt my alternator with new bearings and paint. Cleaned the stator and rotor in the ultra sonic cleaner.

Put back together.

Started bike and voltmeter on the instrument panel does not show any out put above battery voltage. It used to jump up to 13-15 volt range as the rpm increased. Disconnected battery and bike dies.

It worker fine before removal

I checked stator for continuity and for shorts to ground, everything good.

I check red plug for continuity between halves when plugged together, all three yellows and blacks and whites good connection.

Checked white and black wires at red plug for voltage when key turned on. All good , battery voltage present.

Started bike and there was voltage at all three stator yellow wires when bike running. Higher that battery voltage. It does not appear voltage is making past rectifier.

I cleaned area by rectifier to remove alot of grease and replaced rubber band on tank under rectifier. Didn't touch rectifier.

Any suggestions as to check next ?

[daves79x]

Didn't see where you checked the rotor. Slip ring continuity should be around 4 OHM. Most common failure. Don't know about ultrasonic cleaning those parts though. Anyway, output at the red plug when running is AC voltage - is that what you were measuring? If the rotor checks good, then it must be the regulator.

Dave

[Patriotprop]

Where do I check the rotor resistance. Across from the black to the white on the alternators red plug ? What should the AC voltage be when the bike is running. If there is power at the red plug on the black and the white , and power coming out on the yellow wires would that indicate that the regulator is working ? If I have power coming out of the stator and nothing making it to the bike I am thinking it may be the rectifier ???? Any suggestion are appreciated.

As always Thanks

[daves79x]

Check rotor resistance between the copper slip rings. Have to take the alternator apart to do that. Early model shop manuals don't show that check - Pro-Link manuals do. Resistance has to be between 3.8 and 4.2 OHM. Lower or higher is bad. That's the first thing I'd check. You should get something like 27v AC at the red connector before the regulator. All that checks good, then it's the regulator. But my bet is the rotor.

Dave

[Patriotprop]

If it is the regulator whats the best way to go for replacement ?

[daves79x]

TIMS or CBX Performance for new aftermarket - Louis for used OEM (new OEM too, I'm sure).

Dave

[EMS]

First - Ask here if someone has one they want to part with
Then - Go to one of the CBX vendors as Dave suggests
Finally - you can find new ones (aftermarket) on ebay
Example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ricks-Motorspor ... 66&vxp=mtr

[Patriotprop]

Thanks for the link to the manual. Where on the site can I find that ? I may be an idiot but I can't find it ???

[Patriotprop]

Dave, rotor measure 5 ohms across the rotor rings, not sure how accurate my meter is. Where do I Meade across at the red plug ? From yellow to ground or yellow to yellow, measuring in ac mode.

[daves79x]

At 5 OHM , you are pretty high, but it should still charge. You really need a reliable meter. AC voltage can be measured phase-to-phase (yellow-yellow), or phase-to-ground (yellow-white). Usually this check is not done, as the rotor and stator checks are pretty definitive. If they are good, then has to be the regulator.

Dave

[Patriotprop]

Thanks for info, it measures 2 volts yellow to yellow at idle, then picks up to 5 volts as you increase rpm.

I had alternator off while I worked on other details. It worked before I removed it. While I had alternator off I removed swing arm to do a weld on the chain case bracket. I blasted a ton of grease off the back of the engine and the center stand area. I removed the overflow tank under the regulator. So I probably disturbed the regulator. Does the regulator ground threw it mounts ? Maybe I disturbed the ground. Do the wires plug into the regulator, maybe I pulled the wire plug loose ?

Thanks for your help in the matter.

[daves79x]

The regulator does not need to be grounded. Are you measuring voltage with the plug connected? The brushes need 12v for the alternator to charge, so you won't get much of any reading if you are measuring with the red plug unplugged. What you are measuring is not near enough.

I don't like the 5 OHM reading between your slip rings - it is really too high. Try to have it measured with a known accurate meter.

Dave

[Patriotprop]

I bought a replacement regulator rectifier from Lou. Put it in fired bike up, problem solved. Went to 14.5 at just a little bit over idle, checked across battery with a voltmeter. Thanks for the help along the way guys. I ordered the part Friday morning from Lou had it in my box on Monday when I came home from work, all the way from Florida to Arizona in three days.

[daves79x]

Fantastic! Glad it all worked out.

Dave