1980 CBX 3100 miles.

[Quickster2]

Just picked up my bike, rode around today all went well. Unfortunately, loading the bike into the trailer I stalled it out and tried to restart ( probably in gear with clutch pulled in). Nothing happened and no neutral light. I backed down the ramp and started troubleshooting and reading this forum. Here is what I know. Neutral light started working again. Faint click from solenoid when starter button is pushed. No change when you hold in the clutch and attempt to start. Bike can be push started (rolling down hill and popping the clutch) and all sounds normal when I do this. Lights and voltage are reduced when you atempt to start. Bridged solenoid, had spark but no starter rotation. Suggestions? Solenoid. diode, starter? Any help much appreciated for this new CBX owner. It has a new battery, During the ride voltmeter indicated 13 to 14 volts. During the purchase inspection and many times starting everything worked perfectly. Thanks!!!

[spencer]

What does the voltmeter say when you just turn the ignition on, without starting? From your description, it sounds like the battery is discharged. Maybe your new battery is defective, or maybe the alternator is not charging it. Maybe try charging the battery with a charger, and see what happens then.

[daves79x]

I check your battery connections first. But it sounds like a discharged battery to me also. Jumping the solenoid should spin the starter if the battery is good. Load test the battery (with maybe the lights on since you can't load it with the starter) see what voltage drop you are getting. Don't think it's anything serious. BTW, it the battery a lead/acid or AGM? Most of use the AGMs with good success (no more acid spills on expensive stuff and usually much better cranking power. Keep us posted and congrats on the new bike.

Dave

[Quickster2]

Thanks for the replies. The person I bought it from said it was new. It is a no name batteries plus or similar name. I charged it with my Battery Tender plus. The charger went green almost immediately (indicating full charge or useless battery). Sometimes when I turn on the key the voltmeter reads 12V or so (normal), When I hit the starter button (since the problem occurred)it drops after the solenoid clicks in and then stays low until I turn off the key. Sometimes after trying to start the voltage stays low when I turn on the key indicating (to me anyway) the solenoid might be sticking. I have loosened and tightened all connections to battery and in local area including the 30 amp fuse. Twice since my initial post the engine turned over with the starter but since no choke the engine did not start (I was mainly just hitting the button trying to rule out a sticky starter button (it does not seem to be this). Regardless, with the choke on the engine has always started immediately with the starter or by push starting. Since the engine has turned over twice I think I am correct in ruling out the diode? Should I try jumper cables from my boats marine battery? if it worked then it would point to the no name battery. What AGM are you guys using? I will go AGM anyway for the same reason you have already stated. Have to mention.......love the bike. What a machine! First time riding in 20 years, last bike was Suzuki GS750. Thanks again for the replies.

[Quickster2]

FYI I just ordered the Big Crank as recommended by a few here. Going to take the battery out of the equation. I notice a smell of electrolyte during this troubleshooting. Never good this smell. Keep coming with the ideas. I've wanted a CBX since 1982. Finally have one have to get it on the road! Thanks again.

[Quickster2]

Monday update: Jumped started bike. Putting out 14.7 to 15 volts at 3K RPM. My low beam headlight does not work now (coincidence)? When I push the starter button voltage drops, solenoid clicks in and nothing. Voltage usually creeps back up in a minute or two or if I tap the solenoid (this is hard to pattern). I have new AGM battery on order. Battery will be ruled out soon. When I jump the solenoid get a few sparks, voltage drops, motor does not turn over. This leads me to believe either the starter or battery is failing a load test? What are the two little wires on top of the solenoid? If the diodes were bad in the headlight housing could you still push start the bike?

[spencer]

Your symptoms are confusing. It will be good when you have a known good battery.

I'm not sure, but that charging voltage seems a little high. Maybe, the regulator is bad. If so, maybe that high voltage burned out your low beam.

As for the diode, If everything is plugged correctly, and the neutral light comes on when you squeeze the clutch, and not in neutral, then the diode is probably shorted. That would not prevent you from cranking the engine. If the diode is open, then you could crank the engine only if you squeeze the clutch. If you squeeze your clutch, does that make any difference? The diode's only real purpose is to keep the neutral light off when you squeeze the clutch while in gear.

[Quickster2]

Thanks for the reply. The neutral light does not come on in gear when you pull in the clutch. Diode ruled out. Getting closer. Squeezing the clutch does not seem to make much difference. I'll wait for the new battery. Could the voltage be too high and ruin the battery? I rode 51 miles longest cruise this bike has had for many years probably. i really do not want to put jumper cables to the battery (from my marine battery) but that might be an option. Just 12 volts from another standalone battery? I am worried about high current if something really is shorted and power is from an external source. Thanks again for the thoughts.

[Don]

I think it's your battery also - I wouldn't mess with anything else until you've installed your new one

With a good battery, the voltage is usually a bit low for the first few minutes after startup - The alternator is trying to put back the last 5% or so into the battery and that demand for current causes the alternator clutch to slip. If your voltage jumps right up to 14 or so, it's usually a sign the battery isn't accepting a charge

You'll know soon enough when your new AGM arrives - Take note of how long it takes for the voltage to get up to 14 after you start it for the first time with the new battery

Don

[Quickster2]

Thanks. Battery here tomorrow. I agree. If you jump the solenoid the engine should turn over. If the starter was not dis-engaging I think I would notice when I push start the bike. Thanks again for all of the comments.

[Quickster2]

Update 6/29. Installed new AGM battery all is well. Went for 20 minute ride and then checked output voltage. Voltage maxed out at 15.05 (revving the engine). At 3000 RPM voltage was 14.7. This seems a little high to me. Should I replace the rectifier? Again, thanks for all of the help!

[zxbob]

Sounds like its working fine . . . . . I'd leave it be !

Bob

[NobleHops]

Sounds like its working fine . . . . . I'd leave it be !

Bob

Yeah, that sounds about perfect, and like you have a very well-functioning alternator. Pop off the cover of the alternator some day and take a look at the two brushes within the cap. There is a mark scribed in them indicating the service limit. A set of replacements is cheap and good to have on hand.

Good on ya!

N.

[Don]

Voltage maxed out at 15.05 (revving the engine). At 3000 RPM voltage was 14.7. This seems a little high to me. Should I replace the rectifier?

I agree with you that by automotive standards, the voltages are a bit high, but all CBX's are in a similar range - Could be that they adjust them higher to make up for the fact that the battery is regularly subjected to discharge anytime the bike is idling

Anyway, you've solved your problem and all that's left to do now is ride it

Don

[Quickster2]

Thanks again for everyone's help! Everything else on the bike seems well. Replacing the tires with new BT45's and I'll head down the road.