Remove Carbs

[george g]

Is it possible to remove the carbs of a '79 CBX without tilting the engine forward?



Thanks.

[EMS]

Some people say "everything is possible" and so may the removal of the carbs without tilting the engine. I have never attempted it but I am sure it would be significantly more difficult and more "knuckle-busting" work than tilting the engine. I know it's a drag, but it may save you some serious swearing. Something I do all the time when I work on my Harleys - because NOTHING FITS!

[E Lee]

I've done it - because I'm Lazy.

Helps to have individual filters.

Before anything; can you get to the isolator screws?

Try and get some WD/40 on/in the isolators. If the isolators are old an or the carbs have not been off for awhile it's tough.

Isolator band screws, think on how you might put them back on to make easier next time. I found the hardest part to be putting carbs back on; tough to get enough push force to seat them in the isolators. There might be a chance you will crack an isolator. Be ready to buy some new ones at around $23 each but they sure are nice and easy to work with. I put a "little" grease on the carb barrels, helps them slide in ..... Who's going to play with that!!!

Last or first, when you disconnect throtle cables from grip immediatly put some masking tape folded over the cable right at housing to prevent slack to carb. It's a pain when they come out of carb bracket.

Later,

Ed

[dkrager]

Sounds weird but I have found that the best way to get the carbs back on is to run a 2x4 down through the top of the frame and use it as lever. Even the most stubborn carbs will pop right back on with a minimum of swear words. :twisted:

[Terry]

One thing comes to mind on any carb removal--make sure your carb boots aren't already (ceramic like hard) and if they are, get some new ones first. Mine are (that) hard and if and when I ever remove mine, I had better have some softer ones to go back on. Noemsayin :)

[sr71cbx]

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[george g]

Thanks for the feedback guys! I think I'll try removing them w/o tilting the engine (first I'll send the wife & kids away so I can swear freely). With my CB1100F there is a little more room since the air box slides back about a 1/2 inch.



Of course the main reason I am removing them is to see if they need cleaning. For cleaning I've been advised to soak them in Simple Green as this doesn't eat away at the seals / gaskets / etc. Once cleaned and re-installed I plan to have then synchronized (currently hard to start and lots of noise).

[EMS]

Have you tried a cleaning effort WITHOUT taking them off? I have been somewhat successful with running carb cleaner through them. Fill them, let them sit for a while, crank the engine without plugs a little while playing with the throttle. Before you run it, drain the float bowls. Mix some gas with a generous portion of gum-out and run this through the carbs. let the engine idle. May be worth a try.

[E Lee]

If the bike runs at all I'd try the carb cleaner first.

Techron works well. I have dumped a whole bottle in without having a problem, but, take a good trip to run it all out. Include lots of on ramps to twist the throttle and get a good flow going through all the little holes.

Later,

Ed

[cbxdavey]

Quite awhile back in the Xpress was an article from a guy that did it. He removed the battery and battery box to give him the room to move the air cleaner plenum rearward enough to do it. Really dropping the engine ain't that bad. Then when you'/ve got it down like that a valve adjustment is a piece of cake.

[Tom Whaley]

George,



Someone has to say it Drop the engine and make it easy on yourself Reread the manual a couple of times first and you can have the engine tilted within a hour. Just follow the manual step by step and it is a walk in the park. You don't screw up anything and you get a little education. The boys are right about having fresh rubbers though. Sometimes the manufactures actually know what they are doing

[EMS]

Hey Tom: what's the "fresh rubber" thing?? Do I miss something?

[Jim-Jim]

Be aware that there are TWO varieties of Techron and Gumout. You want the CONCENTRATED (more costly) of the two. I was talking to a Support Tech at the Stabil company and he filled me in on them. The concentrated form of the Techron is the 'Pro-Gard', and the Gumout you want is the 'Xtra' concentrated. You can put about 2 OZ per Gallon in the tank and run it through the engine. It's not suppose to hurt anything in the carbs but I would run it through completely. Either brand works fine - watch for sales (Kragen) now and then and stock up. I run them through my carbs on a constant basis and have had no trouble and it seems to let me let teh bike sit on a longer basis when I have other things that need to be done (like post here).

[Guest]

George !! Rotating the engine is not bad at all. Use a small hydraulic jack and a small block of wood under the motor. Follow the manual's instruction to the 'T'.



If your carbs haven't been cleaned in a long while, take them off, take'em apart, and clean them thoroughly. You'll be glad you did. Check the accelerator pump, air cut-off, and cable adjustment while your at it. Using carb cleaner through the gas tank is really only good routine maintainance. Trying to use carb spray through the top, which you can't get all of them off without rotating the motor anyway, or trying to spray through the carb intake or up through the bowl is doing the job half-ass.



After you get them back on take it to a bike shop for balancing or do it yourself. A decent bike shop will only charge about 50 bucks.



If you don't have individual filters you may want to get some, it makes the job even easier. If this is going to be the only time you ever do this or are not going to do any mods, leave the stock stuff in place.

[george g]

I was sitting in the garage next to my beloved, glancing at the TIMS catalogue I had just received trying to determine what I should do (clean carbs with fuel additive or remove the carbs), when I noticed an add for cable lubricant. I figured what-the-hell, I've never lubricated them before. I lubricated the clutch and choke cables really well then let them sit like that overnight.



Yesterday I went back out to spend more quality time with my CBX and I decided I would try to start her. I opened the petcock and opened the choke full, waited 30 seconds, and gave it ONE (1) crank and she fired right up!!!!!!!!!!! (This is the same bike that normally takes 20 or 30 cranks before she even gives me a sign that she was the least bit interested.) I hadn't started her in about two weeks.



Now I don't know if this was a fluke or not, but right now I'm thrilled! I assume the choke cable was not travelling as it should.



Thanks guys for all of your input. Per your suggestions I will take the carbs out this fall and have them cleaned properly, however for now I will use a carb cleaner additive and get them synchronized (short riding season here in Ontario).



Later!

George.