Yes, thanks SO much for sharing your knowledge.
Here's my understanding on the Dynojet needles...
They have a longer-than-usual straight dimension (the first half
inch I'd say) because they were designed for an EPA-mandated
overly lean idle circuit, so the "just off idle" portion would be so lean.
So if everything ELSE is in order (raised the float levels back up, and will
spend a great deal of time making REAL sure the idle circuits are clean),
the DJ needles will probably still be okay??? (I have a set of stock ones,
but I'm kinda hanging onto the for my OTHER '79.)
CBX "Air Tees"
- Mike Nixon
- ICOA Member
- Posts: 378
- Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2003 10:52 pm
- Location: Prescott, AS
- Location: Prescott, AZ
- Contact:
leanness
Ah, you altered float levels. Your leanness, in addition to idle circuit problems, is likely due to that. You can't fix overflowing bowls by changing float levels by the way. Folks often try, but it doesn't work. Get everything right before you decide on the DJ kit, but the experiences of many on this forum will attest that DJ parts are a misery.
-
- ICOA Technical Director
- Posts: 4891
- Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 8:05 am
- Location: Knox, PA
- Location: Knox, PA
Mike N.
I see you've finally given in to extracting the #35 jets also! I completely agree that the time spent in doing that is more than saved in the total time to clean the circuits.
Even after doing the above, a couple of sets I've done, then let sit on the shelf for a while (even after test-running them and draining for storage) have shown signs of partially plugged idle circuits. Inspection showed that some residue had indeed re-hardened and blocked some passages. I don't know how to absolutely guarantee they are completely clean, except to test run them to verify operation, then immediately put them into service and run them. That seems to wash out any residue left capable of fouling the circuits and then they seem to work fine. As I said, I've seen this happen 2 or 3 times on rebuilds I've done and then the carbs were left sitting on a shelf for a few months.
You are right-on Mike in your advice about modifications. Honda got them pretty right as they are - IF they are clean. I've done 2 or 3 sets of '80 carbs (the notoriously leanest of the bunch), gotten the accelerator pump working properly and all else clean, and had all of those bikes start and warm up as well or better than most any other ones I've done. The 80,000 mile stock '80 I have right now starts very easily even after sitting for a month and you can almost immediately take it off choke and go. And it returns over 35 mpg. Most guys (and girls) would be amazed at the difference in their bikes if the carbs were completely clean and adjusted properly.
I must acknowledge here that much of what I learned initially about carbs (and CBX workings in general) came from Mike N. directly. He has been gracious with sound advice about CBXs for many years and it is greatly appreciated.
Dave
I see you've finally given in to extracting the #35 jets also! I completely agree that the time spent in doing that is more than saved in the total time to clean the circuits.
Even after doing the above, a couple of sets I've done, then let sit on the shelf for a while (even after test-running them and draining for storage) have shown signs of partially plugged idle circuits. Inspection showed that some residue had indeed re-hardened and blocked some passages. I don't know how to absolutely guarantee they are completely clean, except to test run them to verify operation, then immediately put them into service and run them. That seems to wash out any residue left capable of fouling the circuits and then they seem to work fine. As I said, I've seen this happen 2 or 3 times on rebuilds I've done and then the carbs were left sitting on a shelf for a few months.
You are right-on Mike in your advice about modifications. Honda got them pretty right as they are - IF they are clean. I've done 2 or 3 sets of '80 carbs (the notoriously leanest of the bunch), gotten the accelerator pump working properly and all else clean, and had all of those bikes start and warm up as well or better than most any other ones I've done. The 80,000 mile stock '80 I have right now starts very easily even after sitting for a month and you can almost immediately take it off choke and go. And it returns over 35 mpg. Most guys (and girls) would be amazed at the difference in their bikes if the carbs were completely clean and adjusted properly.
I must acknowledge here that much of what I learned initially about carbs (and CBX workings in general) came from Mike N. directly. He has been gracious with sound advice about CBXs for many years and it is greatly appreciated.
Dave
- Mike Nixon
- ICOA Member
- Posts: 378
- Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2003 10:52 pm
- Location: Prescott, AS
- Location: Prescott, AZ
- Contact:
...
Coming from you, Dave, that is a compliment, and more than I deserve. Thank you for the kind words.