Remove Carbs

[Passx]

George, I'm with EMS on this, if it runs well just put some carb cleaner in it and enjoy it, and then in the fall tilt the motor do the carb's valves, floats etc. It really isn't that bad, after you do it a couple of times you can have the carbs out & on the bench in about a 1/2 hour, but if it runs good now just enjoy it. Now if you turbo it and get to be like Mark Miller we might have start a Turbo "A A" group but so far Mark seems to be the only casualty. Good Luck.



Steve P. #5220

[sr71cbx]

--

[Nikki6]

Hi guys,



Here?s a little tip



On my -79 with stock air-box, I never tilt the engine to remove the carbs.

It?s not that hard to do, really. Just give 'everything behind' some slack :)

Remove battery, airfilter, loosen clamps, battery holder (remove bolts), air plenum, remove rear fender, wires, loosen brake-oil container.

Now it?s possible to pull plenum back

(use rags under carbs and behind batteryholder not to scrape any paint!)

Remove, as you pull plenum backwards, the clamps.

And now the fun begins, put your hand in the air-box, grab the rubbers and pull them out! (Don?t worry, they go in the same way, with a little lube )

Ever felt like a motorcycle-gynecologist...? Oh, well now the carbs are free to be yanked out It?ll take about an easy hour or so.

Puzzeled? I?ll be glad to answer any questions. Don?t worry, you can do this.

Take care!

Br.Nick

[Nikki6]

Hi guys,



Here?s a little tip



On my -79 with stock air-box, I never tilt the engine to remove the carbs.

It?s not that hard to do, really. Just give 'everything behind' some slack :)

Remove battery, airfilter, loosen clamps, battery holder (remove bolts), air plenum, remove rear fender, wires, loosen brake-oil container.

Now it?s possible to pull plenum back

(use rags under carbs and behind batteryholder not to scrape any paint!)

Remove, as you pull plenum backwards, the clamps.

And now the fun begins, put your hand in the air-box, grab the rubbers and pull them out! (Don?t worry, they go in the same way, with a little lube )

Ever felt like a motorcycle-gynecologist...? Oh, well now the carbs are free to be yanked out It?ll take about an easy hour or so.

Puzzeled? I?ll be glad to answer any questions. Don?t worry, you can do this.

Take care!

Br.Nick

[allilump]

My favorite carb cleaner is Berryman's Chem-12 in a can. The way it smells, I don't know how any grunge could survive it. I have used it with pretty smooth results.

[Mike Nixon]

My turn, my turn! Let's see, four things. First, Berryman's Chemtool is the best -- more on that in a minute. Napa's is a close second. The Berryman's by the way contains toluene, the stuff that used to make model glue so potent and able to rot teenagers brains out. Powerful stuff. Careful with it, okay? Second, on my 81, I tilted the engine dozens of tims to do carb related work, and found that I didn't even have to remove the exhaust system if I just removed the bolts holding the muffs to the frame. Not that big a deal, then. Third, unless the carbs are green and crusty inside (none of us would let that happen, right?), they can nearly always be fully cleaned on the bike. All it takes is knowing where each one of the three parts of each discharging circuit exits. For example, the idle circuit has four openings -- the screw passage, the jet passage, the air passage at the top of the carb under the slide (the larger air jet is the idle one), and finally, the tiny bypass orifices just behind the throttle plate. Use Berryman's with the attached hose, and spray until fluid exits all four places. Four and finally, I think one of the most significant reasons for CBX hard starting has been alluded to in this thread -- the funky choke system. The CBX's choke system is spring-loaded, so that the rider can ride the machine while still on the choke. Problem is, the springs are weak, and the linkage is multi-angle and kind of goofy, and the choke plates don't always close fully when the choke lever is used. On my bike, I went in and rewound the springs one year, and that helped a bunch. The following year I modified the choke linkage to make it fully manual -- i.e. not spring loaded -- and starting became even easier. Food for thought?

[donp]

I have a similar dilemma. One of my throttle cables broke in the throttle housing just after the end lug. I have a new cable (I'll replace both) . The manual says to tilt the engine to replace the cables. Has anyone done this without tilting. It must take long pliers and little fingers. Maybe I should bite the bullet and tilt it just for the learning experience as was suggested although I am basically lazy at heart.

[BackRoadBruce]

Removing Stuck CBX Carburetors



I recently had to remove two sets of carburetor banks from 1982 CBX's. These carbs had been on the bikes for ages and were really stuck. This is how I was able to remove them without damaging anything.

• 1) Tilt the engine well forward.
  
  
  
  2) Loosen all of the bands connecting the rubber isolator tubes between the carburetors and the cylinder head.
  
  
  
  3) Remove the overflow drain tubes.
  
  
  
  4) Place a thin board under the carburators against the back of the cylinder housing. I used a piece of 3/4 inch plywood about 2 inches wide and 14 inches long.
  
  
  
  5) Use a large, heavy screw driver or small, straight pry bar. Place the base of the bar against the wood above the rear cam tensioner bolt. Run the bar across the heavy L bracket to which all of the carburetors are attached. Firmly, but gently lever back against the bracket. Work from side to side, always being careful with placement of the pry bar. I straddled the bike, one hand holding the wood and the other working the bar. This provided good control and leverage. After about three strong pulls on each side, the carbs popped loose.

Before re-installing the carbs I coated the inner lip of each isolator tube with a thin layer of Anti-seize compound. This made slipping the carbs back on much easier and should ease future removal.