79 restoration, suggestions/input welcome

[daves79x]

It's not supposed to 'clip on'. Those two tabs you are using to clip it on should be connected by a complete piece of rubber for the bumper to slide over the battery box tab. It should have printing on the top side of it if that's the part we think it is. It's just a top battery bumper and 99% of CBXs are missing it.

Dave

[wyly]

Z

[EMS]

I think the rubber is supposed to hold the battery down.
If you are pulling the battery out of position without disconnecting the terminals, the rubber prevents the positive terminal from making contact with ground.

[FalldownPhil]

It keeps the battery from bouncing up and down (very much) and is insulated.
Best,
Phil

[wyly]

Z

[bikeymikey748]

If it's a........half dozen wraps of electrical tape should work as well.

Not, really, an option. The tape adhesive will run, the wrapping separate because of the heat in that area. I'm not being a smart-ass, just tying to save you the lesson I learned that 1/2 measures on CBXs have a habit of biting you on your butt
Don't ask how I know

[wyly]

Z

[wyly]

Z

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

Looks good, wyly.
I cure my parts in the oven between coats. It has worked on engine covers and brake calipers.

[wyly]

Z

[Michael Vidovic]

So it's been a while since I've posted years in fact but now that the last of my kids dental($60K) work is completed I have some spare cash to finally get my 79 running again.I'd like opinions on which route to take restore or modify, probably one of the most asked frequently asked questions.

I bought the z new back in '78 it was in the very first batch built #1498,10K miles. It still has all the major original parts except for tires that were changed in '81. One cracked coil needs replacement, two bolts for the rear grab bar misplaced, bolt for battery box missing. Battery is gone and foam filter for air cleaner disintegrated. Two wrenches from the tool kit and the pouch for the owners book also misplaced(gotta be in the garage somewhere). Original muffler has some rust bubbling up where it meets the pipes. Two small dents in the front of the gas tank.
The engine is being stripped down and inspected worn parts being replaced, $5K estimated cost. The technician rebuilding the engine recommends not fixing minor imperfections(dents scratches) doing as little restoration as possible, in order to appeal to a larger buyers market. And I need to justify the cost to the wife not to make a profit but when it comes time to sell hopefully recover the investment.

First question. I've eliminated the much cheaper Mac exhaust choice and settled on either new Sankei HM422ED reproductions or Pipemastesr 6-6. The Sankei's will cost me $2K delivered from Europe, the Pipemasters from Australia $2.5K(likely some government import tax too).
If money were no object I'd get both, if the originals weren't rusting from the inside I wouldn't get either. If I'm hanging the originals on the garage wall should I bother keeping the original look or switch to 6 into 6? Is my z original enough to bother keeping it looking that way?
How loud are the 6-6s, I'm losing my hearing and I'm not sure I want to speed up the process. But I do like the look of the 6-6s and they sound great on Youtube but will my ears and my neighbours ears appreciate it?

Hi
They look great and sound great. Take a little getting used to. I use earplugs on longer runs-works well and let's you enjoy the music. My nephew won't let me change to the 6 into 2 I've got sitting in the garage, he thinks it sounds 'unbelievable'

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

In the oven at 200 degrees for 1 hour{leaving them to cool in the oven] for VHT caliper paint.
I used the same procedure on some old engine covers with Goodson ALB-1 aluminum engine paint.
Hung the parts using coat hanger wire when painting and hung them from a rack in the oven.

[NobleHops]

By the way, if I didn't suggest this already, those "Sankei" (not) pipes are for sale in the USA for around $1,200 last I checked.

[wyly]

Z

[wyly]

z