The International CBX Owners Association

shiskowd wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 06, 2021 11:46 pm

Back to the jetting, at our 3,500 ft elevation would going to the #38 slow jet perform better than the #35's with stock pipes and intake?

At 3500 ft. you don't want to add more fuel by going to a larger slow jet. If anything you might want
to try a leaner pilot screw setting like one and a half turns out.

I've found that #38 pilots help that "Cold Blooded" attitude regardless of altitude. In a overbore motor I'll go to #40.

All of the Honda's (and other makes) of this time period were manufactured lean to help emissions. Today's fuel doesn't have the same BTU per drop as the fuel of yesteryear did.

We did a stock bore bike with the 38s and I did not feel like it carbureted quite as crisply. Felt fat and smelled rich, and no amount of mixture screw fiddling fixed it. YMMV.

NobleHops wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 07, 2021 9:11 am

We did a stock bore bike with the 38s and I did not feel like it carbureted quite as crisply. Felt fat and smelled rich, and no amount of mixture screw fiddling fixed it. YMMV.

shiskowd wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 06, 2021 11:46 pm

Thanks Dave, can't argue with your experience in this area. I'm well aware of the proverbial rabbit hole and how costs can snowball with no real benefit in terms of outcome at times. The engine is pristine internally as far as I can see thus far. As you suggest, I'd rather spend the $ on upgrading the suspension. Perhaps an Ikon shock and the Race Tech emulators & springs, or the more spendy Ohlins or Traxxion cartridges.

Anybody who is seriously involved in dealing with vintage vehicles will tell you that there is a significant difference between an engine that sat for 20 years not running and one of the same age that is being operated regularly. A motor that has 5 miles on it and sat that long can be in worse condition than one that has 50k miles on it but was used. It gives me the creeps when I see these "pickers" or "classic car chasers'" in TV shows, finding a car that sat 25 years and then hook up a battery, give it gas and see if it wants to start. Neoprene seals that sit on metal have a tendency to fuse themselves to their seat. If you start moving the parts, the seal surfaces tear. That's why any expert tells you to rock any rotating shaft that is sealed slightly back and forth and not turn over bevor you run it.
Anything that I have had, which sat for an extensive period of time, I have taken the cylinder head off and look inside. A borescope will not tell all. There a many blank steel and metal surfaces inside that can develop corrosion. This is cheap insurance. And while you are at it, changing the stem seals is a piece of cake. I cannot see a major waste of money, especially as you are doing it yourself.
Then again, it is totally up to you and of course, you can sink your money and effort into suspension upgrades.

Definitely on the seal thing, Mike. That's why, in the old days, we would require parts depot at Ford to rotate the input shaft of steering gears, in stock, one full turn once a year. (Don't know what they do now.) Dynamic seals don't like to sit against a shaft or sliding surface. Not saying they can't.. Just watch them closely and don't be surprised if you see some wet.

I purchased a quality leak down tester (Longacre) to get another read on the engine. My compression tester is suspect (cheap Amazon variety) and I have another on the way from the UK (Laser) that I'll retest when I get the engine sealed up and full of oil.

The leak down showed good results, leak % from 1 to 3 across all the cylinders while at TDC (cyl #1 in the pic below). One of the cylinders was initially reading 30%, leaking through one of the exhaust valves. Mike Nixion suggests a gentle tap on the valve bucket to shake out any carbon that may be under the valve. Worked - leak percentage dropped to 3% after a few light taps. The Longacre kit works great.

As I said before - it will run just fine the way it is.

Dave

I haven't posted for some time as there's been nothing too notable to share with my progress. However, noticed this today as I was cleaning up the foot peg brackets, readying them to install with the engine back in the frame. I mentioned earlier that the bike had some right side crash or tip over damage. I wouldn't have caught this unless I had taken the otherwise good looking foot peg off the bracket. There is nothing on the front side suggesting the potential impending calamity.

Anyone have a right side foot peg hanger bracket they can part with??

PM me

There,s a local guy in the CVMG club ,does welding from his garage in NW Calgary ,looks like something which could easily be repaired with welding & filing ,if instr'd I can get his phone # .