Thank youSyscrush wrote: ↑Tue Jan 26, 2021 1:42 pmIt looks like you're doing a lovely job with this restoration project - and the documentation and careful photo taking are great. It always puts a smile on my face to see good shop photos in a thread like this.
Thanks again for sharing this, and good luck with it!
, my other passion that I don't spend nearly enough time is photography so it's fun to mix them up.I wanted to ensure I got the primary shaft lined up correctly even though I've had the cases together for some time
. Loose fitted the clutch cover and the timing bits - everything lines up 
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I got the carbs together finally. Thus ends an easy 40 hours I stunk into these and probably half that again researching best practices in addition to Mr. Nixon's book. The last struggle was setting the accelerator pump. Mike Nixon commented on one of the forum threads he likes to see 6mm of pump shaft travel. I couldn't get anymore than the spec'd 3mm in the manual regardless of the adjusting arm position. I'll need to leak check them in the garage when it warms up some. Fingers crossed on their operation - really want to break the newb rule of thumb that I'll have them on and off 3 times before I get it right...
Next up was the clutch rubbers. I could detect slight movement when applying some torque by hand so I ordered Bert's kit. Installs easy enough and it's super tight now. Great pictorial on Restocycle's Facebook site that walks you through this - thanks Nils!
Continuing with projects I can do in my basement while this cold spell passes in Alberta... on to the gauges.
I purchased new faceplates and needles from Bert at SIxCenter, wanting the metric primary faces but not realizing they didn't have the sub miles units as the Canadian bikes have. Does anyone have a source for the dual units with KM/hr being the primary scale??
The exercise is a bit nerve wracking, not wanting to bugger up the delicate pieces that haven't been apart for 40+ years. Placing the needle back on the instrument is a trial and error exercise to scale it properly. I used an electric drill with the RPM confirmed by a contactless laser tach. The camshaft spins at 1/2 the speed of the crank, the tach gear spins 1/2 the speed as the cam, so you need to multiply the drill speed by 4 to get the indicated RPM. You can see in the photo that 1,970 RPM x 4 = 7,880 RPM which is about where the tach needle was pointing. However that mechanism works in the tack, it is very linear at lesser tested speeds so I was pleased and placed the glass back on after a thorough cleaning. I confirmed the speedo similarly but there's more math involved with the front tire diameter and the gear reduction in the speedo cable drive.
They don't build speedometers like this anymore, I guess no manufacture makes mechanical speedo anywhere these days...
Question - what is the accepted practice when you install a gauge cluster from another bike on to a chassis that you acquired that had no speedometer (therefore no odometer) and you have no idea of the previous mileage? The title on the bike receiving the speedo had no indication of mileage and the previous owner had no idea as the speedo disappeared prior to his purchase. I figure I could wind the odometer to some value now but what value understanding that I'll need to fully disclose the bikes history and this rather thorough restoration should I elect to sell the bike at some point?
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There was enough oil and assembly lube that had likely stuck the relatively light washer somewhere I can't see it and won't release.
