'Diamond in the rough'

[daves79x]

Jeff:
Yes, all of Jim's set-ups I've seen (and that TIMS now sells also) are the 2 carb per pod set-up. If you are saying that jetting differences and running issues between those and individual pods are significant, then I defer to your experience on that. Everything I've worked on has been the Siamesed K&Ns. In the end I, like you, much prefer the stock airbox for all my bikes.

Dave

[bikeymikey748]

Well you've got me scratching my head over pods vs stock box. Honestly, tilting down the motor every time I need to fuss with the carbs just doesn't seem a viable idea if other (pods) options exist. Between my '78 SR 500 with a K&N pod and my Duc, I'm pretty ok with intake noise
On to other things....The stock idle adjustment wasn't a liveable arrangement for me either (hmmm, CBX issues 101 ?) . I fabbed this up with a thin alloy rod, an old speedo reset knob that was lying around and a small bolt to lock the rod to the stock knob:






The carbs are just bolted quickly into postition so I could get things done....I realise the caps aren't facing the same direction...

[daves79x]

Even though these are certainly fiddly carbs to get cleaned correctly, once they are, with proper treatment and storage, they will remain trouble-free for years. It's not like you have to remove them every year to mess with them. In 32 years, I've really only had to take the carbs off my '79 once. And they have never been separated - just a quick pilot jet cleaning from some bad fuel that sat over the winter years ago. With the stock airbox, you won't have to guess as to the jetting either. See what you think when you get to that point.

Dave

[bikeymikey748]

Dave, good points again, and thanks for chiming in, help is always greatly appreciated. Another reason I'm leaning towards individual filters is that I am hoping to use the space vacated by the stock box to hide my electrics and (smaller, gel-cell) battery. I plan on having a Ducati Monster seat only, and associated framing, aft of the tank.

[bikeymikey748]

Relocated my choke (much more positive actuation/less 'clutter' on the bars). Its a modded bit from a Honda dirt bike I had lying about;








Oh, and I made some changes (already !) to my McGyvered idle speed adjuster (I'm using a SS antenea mast for the shaft now);

[daves79x]

I admire your ingenuity, but I think you have solved a non-existent problem with the idle adjuster. As I said before, once the carbs are right (which admitedly can take a while) you'll rarely, if ever, need to adjust the idle. But to each his own! Keep the updates coming!

Dave

[bikeymikey748]

So, I'm out walking the dogs the other day and I bump into my neighbor, Rollie. I ask him over for a cup of coffee, and the maroon accepts, little guessing my ulterior motives. He just had time to finish his cup when I mentioned in passing that the motor on the 'X' was good to go....did he mind pitching in ? In my defence, I'm still on the mend, and he actually had an easy time of it. My buddy John's bike lift worked out GREAT to drop the 'lump' out of the frame (even easier to roll it around my,tiny, garage).;



I found a few more suprises, such as my 'toasted' connector for the alternator;




And, isn't there supposed to be some kind of a plug in here ? Can I tap the hole & place a shallow threaded insert ?;



Last suprise of the day is that the fabric braid on my oil lines (to the cooler) is falling apart. Seems to me I recall seeing aftermarket replacement hoses that attached to the original fittings with hose clamps. Is it possible to trust hose clamps in this application, is the oil pressure at the cooler low enough that they might be a viable option? I'm thinking of covering the original rubber hoses with stainless braid and fitting them to the original fittings (at the cooler & cases) with clamps.

[daves79x]

A rubber plug goes in your open hole there and is still available from Honda. Install it with a smear of Hondabond. You can get new oil hoses made up locally as per several other threads on the forum. I'm sure others will chime in on that.

Dave

[deadbanana0717]

I hate you bikeymikey748!! your doing the exact same build that I want to do! then again, Keep going!! cuz then I will have a target to aim for!
WOw! great job on what you've done so far! I just got my X... Soon ill be on my way! I hope this post subscribes me to yours! (updates )

[Jeff Bennetts]

A rubber plug goes in your open hole there and is still available from Honda. Install it with a smear of Hondabond. You can get new oil hoses made up locally as per several other threads on the forum. I'm sure others will chime in on that.

Dave

Or you can make your own, Summit Racing sells the hoses and fittings, either way make sure you index the hoses to the bike before they crimp on the new fittings if a shop is making them to avoid any twist in the hoses.

[bikeymikey748]

I hate you bikeymikey748!!

Ya....I get that a lot
Seriously, DB0717, get a move on. I can't do this on my own. I'm going to need all the help I can get. Who better to guide me than someone else in the same (sinking) boat?

Or you can make your own, Summit Racing sells the hoses and fittings

Thanks, Jeff, great tip. I'll definetly be looking into that .

More news: I got the frame stripped of all the other bits and gave it a good de-grundging.
I was going to get into the motor straight away, but decided that the frame was just begging to see how the GSXR swing arm fit up.
WOW. You won't believe how easy the pivot bolts matched.



The upper is the stock pivot bolt. Above it to the left is the fixed threaded frame insert (RH), to the right the adjustable LH insert. Below these is the pivot bolt from the 2008 GSXR 1000 I hope to mount. Would you believe the threaded section on the GSXR shaft is an exact match for the Honda's inserts?! Two minor problems. One;the Suzi shaft is too long. I plan to cut more threads further along its length and tap the fixed RH insert to accept it.Two; the allen wrench socket to tighten the bolt doesn't go in far enough to be of any use when I trim off the excess length on the RH side (after seating it against the swing arm).




I plan to make four small cuts across its face to accept a castleated socket (similar to the locking ring).Also the Suzi lock ring is too wide to fit...the Honda fits quite nicely
I marked the centerline of the frame's spine and sighted down its length with a laser pointer. If my measuring is correct, I'll need only a 12mm. spacer on the RH side to bring the arm to center.





Preliminary verification of sprocket alignment suggests that a 10mm. front offset will make the rear sprocket's alignment as well as chain-to-frame clearance very close to ideal. The GSXR's rear sprocket is dished towards the outside. Between turning it inward and, possibly, trimming the cush drive slightly I should be ok.
Meanwhile over in front, initial fitting of the Suzi front triple clamps revealed that the shaft was too short and the ball-element bearings wouldn't fit. Look at how much more substantial the Suzuki item is in comparison to the Honda bit;





The good news? The shafts seem to be interchangeable. While both are at 30mm. (where they sit in the lower clamp), the Honda has shallow splines the Suzuki lacks. I'm currently undecided as to whether I'll machine a channel in the Honda shaft to accept the Suzuki's lockring while removing any excess length, or fab a spacer (the Honda's shaft is longer) to hold the Honda item to the length I require.
Then it's a puzzle over where to set the rear arm's angle. Chain run over the top of the arm doesn't seem to be an issue, even at extreme angles the 18 tooth front sprocket seems to keep it away from the arm. Then it becomes a question of ground clearance, seat height and handling characteristics given a lowered front end and (possibly) raised rear. I hope to compensate for the dropped front end by raising the rear slightly. I took measurements of the stock angle and will be using this as a baseline.

[NobleHops]

Ok, somebody pass the popcorn, this thread is gonna be great...

Subscribed!

N.

[bikeymikey748]

NOW we're gettin' somewhere





Not too involved, really. A few issues: The Suzi got the ,Honda, shaft. While both measured equally at something like 30mm.O.D., the Honda bit pressed in quite readily in the Suzuki lower clamp. Maybe it was slightly undersized above its splines. No matter, it has a nice flange at its end that traps it securely. I pressed it in with Loctite red and may just stake it in place ( to be certain it won't rotate) but I am confidant it should be fine. Additionally, the Honda part was longer. To correct this I was going to fab a spacer to go between its flange & the underside of the clamp. Turns out, the ( aluminum) Suzuki locking nuts I won't be needing are a perfect thickness. I machined the threads off of one & it dropped into place;



I had to make a short collar to fit in the Suzuki upper clamp as the Suzuki steering shaft had a larger diameter than the Honda's. I'll lose a bit of steering angle in the change to this front end and am obligated to go with clip-on risers in order that my thumbs clear the gas tank. Man, more stuff to buy. The outer races of the stock steering head bearings were CRAZY dented, I'll be sourcing them (hopefully) from a local bearing supplier.
I ordered a 42 ( as opposed to the current 43 ) tooth rear sprocket for the Suzuki. This , along with the offset 18 tooth front gives me identical gearing to the Mighty X. Seeing as the difference in wheel cirmumfrance Honda vs Suzuki is 82.5-77.5" (-6%) I might notice a slight difference in pick-up/roll-on.I'll be waiting on the sprocket's arrival before finalizing swing arm/shock placement. LOTS more to keep me occupied though

[Jeff Bennetts]

Looks good, a few things for you to ponder. You're starting with an 80 frame, that's good because it has the extra frame brace below the side covers but you really should consider some additional bracing, triangulate under the battery box and maybe one on each side of the steering head or from the backbone to the frame under the tank.

Keep us posted, I like where this is going.

[daves79x]

Bottom steering bearing is available anywhere - top is Honda only. If that's what you were asking. Great looking start to your project!

Dave