bikeymikey748 wrote:Man, what an excellent weekend!
Ah....Progress!!
Wheels !;
Frame got dropped onto the motor too !:
Somebody, stop me!!
I'd love to stay and chat, but there's a Scotch waiting upstairs with my name on it
Jeff Bennetts wrote:NobleHops wrote:I'm doin it. Will be fun.
N.
Nils, Summit Racing has this starter Devilbiss kit on sale now for $125.00, 10 percent off, Like you I have decided to take a spin at painting and my local paint supply guy said it's a decent kit for the price.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DVR-802343/
Wow. Amazing stuff. Motor looks great, wheels are one of a kind, plenty of trick bits, fantastic. I can't believe how fast you're going Mike, it's astonishing to me and I bet others. I really can't wait to see the assembled package, in particular the fender and the other graphics that I have no doubt you're also doing, judging from your helmet.bikeymikey748 wrote:Man, what an excellent weekend!
Ah....Progress!!
...
Somebody, stop me!!
I'd love to stay and chat, but there's a Scotch waiting upstairs with my name on it
As always, you flatter me , Nils.So how about you 'out' yourself a little Mike?
Hehe... Yea! ive seen people slap on VFR Swingarms but thats Hodna to Honda... Probably a little easier than the Ducati.EMS wrote:I have seen quite a few single sided swingarm mods. Arms sourced from Interceptors to Ducatis. Many of them were installed without regard for intended geometry and thus are doubtful to work better than anything they replaced. Especially the Ducati swingarms were just put in to fit. Totally ignoring that the original shock has a linkage and a position to work correctly. But they sure look cool.bikeymikey748 wrote: mounting them is a bit more work. There's the matter of finding room for the upper, rocker, mount & linkage. I imagine sprocket alignment might be a more complicated matter too. The cush drive assemblies in the Ducs don't ,easily, lend themselves to modification. Though, there seem to be a lot of folks who've adopted this mod, so the knowledge is out there. Hey, maybe someone right here on the forum.
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*Crosses fingers*Your engine and frame look amazing!bikeymikey748 wrote:As always, you flatter me , Nils.So how about you 'out' yourself a little Mike?
Really I'm just a guy who likes to throw stuff together. The fact that some of you seem to get a kick out of it too... well sir, that just puts a big dumb grin on my face. Honest !
Hopefully , by this time next week, the suspension will be on and I'll have a 'roller' .
Thanks , lads, for your input, I begin the week on a good note.
Life is good
Ola, Kyle.Base gloss ( Alain, my paint guy, calls it 'clearcoat' paint)....I shot BASF Limco Supreme S/S 2.8. A good quality epoxy primer works best. I tried a anti-corrosion etch primer from PPG, and it seems to chip easier than an epoxy one.Just wondering if you ended up clearing the frame or just used a base gloss
Dr. Carb (Dave) is right on the money about pods working. My 80 has 120 mains, needles raised 40 thou and Tim's 3/2 K&N's. It runs great !! Pulls right with Swifty's perfectly tuned stock 79 from the bottom right to 9k. The intake sound is something I like as it goes with the other great sounds of the bike. Oh..... I'm running Pipemasters 6/6 system. Love it.daves79x wrote:You can actually make the stock carbs run pretty well with pods, without the stage 3 kit. The mistake most guys make is not jetting up enough. If you try to run a stock set of carbs with pods and no jetting changes, it will be down about 20 hp and feel like a weak 650cc bike. Every year of carb is different, so jetting changes vary. The '79 has 98 stock mains and 120 is a good starting point. If the bike staggers off idle and surges at steady throttle, go bigger. At $50 a pop, main sets get expensive, but you have to do this. You can also go up to somewhere in the '70s from the stock 65 primary mains and shim the needles. If the bike runs and responds well after you jet the carbs but your gas mileage is in the low twenties or worse, then you went too rich. You can attain 30mpg or a little better if jetted properly with pods and still have it run pretty well.
If you can get your hands on a stage 3 kit, they work well too, on the '79 carbs. They will be pretty rich, but you have an adjustable needle and you do drill out the vacuum holes a bit. I never saw a stage 3 kit supplied with replacement vacuum springs, and I've installed several kits.
'80 carbs will take at least 130 mains (they have 110 stock) and '81-'82 carbs should be 125s or so (they have 105 stock). This will get you in the close ballpark with pods, no matter the pipe.
I personally don't like the pod filters on a CBX because the carbs are hard to tune, and the intake honk is pretty bad, but a lot of guys want to go that way, so I've had to play around with them and this is what I've found. Jim Z has done extensive dyno work on these set-ups and has had good success jetting with pods, mostly stage 3 kitted.
Dave
