Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
- NobleHops
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Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
OK, input welcome, and I'll revise as needed. Here's a quick tuturial on how to swap Hitachi connectors on your wiring harness.
First it's helpful to understand what's happening in there. See the hole where the wires and spades engage the plastic body of the connector? Notice that is has a very slight T shape?
There is a small tang on the spade that clicks into place when the assembled wire and spade is inserted. To remove this wire/spade combo, we must push the tang out of the way momentarily:
So we need this, or a facsimile thereof. A pick or jeweler's screwdriver works but requires a bit more feel. Select the size pick that most closely matches the connector:
Insert along the base of the T. It's helpful to push the wire/spade assembly into the connector from the opposite side a little as you do this so the tang isn't binding against the plastic. Push the tool in till it stops, hold it there, and remove the wire. This would be a good time to make a really foolproof diagram showing what wire goes where in the connector .
Assembly back into an identical connector is simply a matter of sliding the wire/spade back into the plastic connector until you hear it click into place. You should make certain the tang is standing proud of the spade and not smushed flat from your extraction process.
If you need to replace the spades or sockets for whatever reason, then there is a second operation. Note that not all spades or sockets will fit all connectors. Be careful to match them up.
These spades and sockets have a little strain relief designed into them, to crimp the insulation of the wire as well as the wire itself.
Strip a small amount of wire (I actually did too much here, 2-3mm or so is about right)
Insert the wire into new spade so the insulation is on the outermost crimp point. Crimp it carefully, and not all at once, eg you may need to work the metal into a cylindrical shape with the tip of the crimping tool a bit before you smush it down or it won't come out right. You will see what I mean the first time you do it.
Crimp onto the insulation to provide the strain relief. Don't mash it too hard.
Crimp onto the stripped part, as above.
For the BEST results, wick some solder into it now. I didn't show this in pictures, I was too lazy to fire it up.
Reinsert into the connector, and hear it snap into place.
You need some stuff:
These connectors can be found at Vintage Connections http://www.vintageconnections.com/
Likewise these tools:
I love my stripper (hush now!), can't recall where I got it:
Suggestions welcome!
N.
First it's helpful to understand what's happening in there. See the hole where the wires and spades engage the plastic body of the connector? Notice that is has a very slight T shape?
There is a small tang on the spade that clicks into place when the assembled wire and spade is inserted. To remove this wire/spade combo, we must push the tang out of the way momentarily:
So we need this, or a facsimile thereof. A pick or jeweler's screwdriver works but requires a bit more feel. Select the size pick that most closely matches the connector:
Insert along the base of the T. It's helpful to push the wire/spade assembly into the connector from the opposite side a little as you do this so the tang isn't binding against the plastic. Push the tool in till it stops, hold it there, and remove the wire. This would be a good time to make a really foolproof diagram showing what wire goes where in the connector .
Assembly back into an identical connector is simply a matter of sliding the wire/spade back into the plastic connector until you hear it click into place. You should make certain the tang is standing proud of the spade and not smushed flat from your extraction process.
If you need to replace the spades or sockets for whatever reason, then there is a second operation. Note that not all spades or sockets will fit all connectors. Be careful to match them up.
These spades and sockets have a little strain relief designed into them, to crimp the insulation of the wire as well as the wire itself.
Strip a small amount of wire (I actually did too much here, 2-3mm or so is about right)
Insert the wire into new spade so the insulation is on the outermost crimp point. Crimp it carefully, and not all at once, eg you may need to work the metal into a cylindrical shape with the tip of the crimping tool a bit before you smush it down or it won't come out right. You will see what I mean the first time you do it.
Crimp onto the insulation to provide the strain relief. Don't mash it too hard.
Crimp onto the stripped part, as above.
For the BEST results, wick some solder into it now. I didn't show this in pictures, I was too lazy to fire it up.
Reinsert into the connector, and hear it snap into place.
You need some stuff:
These connectors can be found at Vintage Connections http://www.vintageconnections.com/
Likewise these tools:
I love my stripper (hush now!), can't recall where I got it:
Suggestions welcome!
N.
Nils Menten
Tucson, Arizona, USA
'82 CBX, among others.
Tucson, Arizona, USA
'82 CBX, among others.
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Re: Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
NilsMenten wrote:OK, input welcome, and I'll revise as needed. Suggestions welcome!
N.
Wow! You better get back to work now, you spent enough time on the Internet ( note that I did not say you "wasted")
- Kool_Biker
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Re: Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
Great post Nils!!
I would also support, as you mention, that soldering the wire onto the connector is definitely worth it as it improves conductivity & rigidity and offers (to me at least) peace of mind.
Now assuming you agree to also solder, I would change the sequence mentioned as follows:
First, crimp and solder the stripped part of the wire.
Wait until it cools down (< 30 sec), and only then crimp the insulated part.
In this way, heat from the soldering process is much less likely to compromise the quality & rigidity of the crimp on the insulated part of the wire.
My
I would also support, as you mention, that soldering the wire onto the connector is definitely worth it as it improves conductivity & rigidity and offers (to me at least) peace of mind.
Now assuming you agree to also solder, I would change the sequence mentioned as follows:
First, crimp and solder the stripped part of the wire.
Wait until it cools down (< 30 sec), and only then crimp the insulated part.
In this way, heat from the soldering process is much less likely to compromise the quality & rigidity of the crimp on the insulated part of the wire.
My
Aris Hadjiaslanis
ICOA # 6309
Berkshire, Windsor
ICOA # 6309
Berkshire, Windsor
- NobleHops
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Re: Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
Mike is making a funny as he knows I work online making websites all day .
Aris, great suggestions. I will revise, with better photography. Hopefully this gets Kent off and running in the short term, but it's worth doing well.
N.
Aris, great suggestions. I will revise, with better photography. Hopefully this gets Kent off and running in the short term, but it's worth doing well.
N.
Nils Menten
Tucson, Arizona, USA
'82 CBX, among others.
Tucson, Arizona, USA
'82 CBX, among others.
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Re: Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
Thanks, Nils. Excellent stuff. Wanna do a tech manual!? On tip to just add to your comment about noting the wire locations before disassembly, digital camera. Clean the wires so the colors can be easily seen. Then, photo the thing. This is a great tool for many rebuild projects to help remember where which piece went. Us old codgers have trouble remembering where we put the thing; let alone where it goes in the reassembly!
Larry Zimmer
cbxlarry@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
Great suggestion Larry. I use photographs for reassembly myself!
/r
Brad
/r
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Re: Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
Speaking from over 30 years of experience in automotive wiring design, fabrication and installation........
1. Soldering isn't necessary IF the terminal is crimped properly.
2. Honda used (OK for the time) GPT (General Purpose Theromplastic) wire. What that means is that soldering WILL melt the insulation thus compromising protection.
3. There probably isn't one drop of solder in the entire stock CBX harness.
4. Better terminals, connectors and wire are available today if you're not concerned with being "correct".
The crimpers shown have die sizes that don't fit the terminals offered in the kit properly.
For the weekend wiring guy, this set of crimpers for open barrel terminals have a wider range of sizes:
http://order.waytekwire.com/productdeta ... MP%20TOOL/
1. Soldering isn't necessary IF the terminal is crimped properly.
2. Honda used (OK for the time) GPT (General Purpose Theromplastic) wire. What that means is that soldering WILL melt the insulation thus compromising protection.
3. There probably isn't one drop of solder in the entire stock CBX harness.
4. Better terminals, connectors and wire are available today if you're not concerned with being "correct".
The crimpers shown have die sizes that don't fit the terminals offered in the kit properly.
For the weekend wiring guy, this set of crimpers for open barrel terminals have a wider range of sizes:
http://order.waytekwire.com/productdeta ... MP%20TOOL/
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Re: Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
JR:
Those were most of my thoughts also, I just couldn't express them nearly as well as you do. Agree that the crimpers supplied with most of the aftermarket kits don't exactly fit correctly. They do seem to work OK if, as Nils said, you fiddle a bit with them. There IS solder on a CBX in a couple of places, but none on crimped connections as you correctly point out. (Alternator brush holders are soldered, and I think the turn signal sockets have soldered contacts, as well as the internals of the handlebar switches, but your point is well made.)
Dave
Those were most of my thoughts also, I just couldn't express them nearly as well as you do. Agree that the crimpers supplied with most of the aftermarket kits don't exactly fit correctly. They do seem to work OK if, as Nils said, you fiddle a bit with them. There IS solder on a CBX in a couple of places, but none on crimped connections as you correctly point out. (Alternator brush holders are soldered, and I think the turn signal sockets have soldered contacts, as well as the internals of the handlebar switches, but your point is well made.)
Dave
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Re: Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
Certainly solder is required to connect to switch contacts, brushes, etc. As you'll agree, in the harness itself, there is no solder. It's all just crimped.
I get the majority of my wiring supplies from Waytek as they are consistantly priced right.
www.waytekwire.com
For the Japanese terminals I go to:
http://www.vintageconnections.com/ConnectorKits.htm
I have a set of crimpers made by AMP that are considered "economy" that I have at least 500,000 crimps on in the last 25 years and still going strong. Like anything else, buy good tools, take care of them and they'll last a long time.
J.R.
I get the majority of my wiring supplies from Waytek as they are consistantly priced right.
www.waytekwire.com
For the Japanese terminals I go to:
http://www.vintageconnections.com/ConnectorKits.htm
I have a set of crimpers made by AMP that are considered "economy" that I have at least 500,000 crimps on in the last 25 years and still going strong. Like anything else, buy good tools, take care of them and they'll last a long time.
J.R.
- Jeff Bennetts
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Re: Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
Soldering the connector pin can make the wire fatigue where the soldering stops, the wire breaks strand by strand until there is a loss of electricity flowing or it breaks completely. Soldering solid wire is Okay though.daves79x wrote:JR:
Those were most of my thoughts also, I just couldn't express them nearly as well as you do. Agree that the crimpers supplied with most of the aftermarket kits don't exactly fit correctly. They do seem to work OK if, as Nils said, you fiddle a bit with them. There IS solder on a CBX in a couple of places, but none on crimped connections as you correctly point out. (Alternator brush holders are soldered, and I think the turn signal sockets have soldered contacts, as well as the internals of the handlebar switches, but your point is well made.)
Dave
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Re: Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
Regarding solder: Note what the automotive companies have been doing the past 10 years with critical connections.
Larry Zimmer
cbxlarry@sbcglobal.net
cbxlarry@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
I would note it but I don't know what it is! Share Larry!Larry Zimmer wrote:Regarding solder: Note what the automotive companies have been doing the past 10 years with critical connections.
N.
Nils Menten
Tucson, Arizona, USA
'82 CBX, among others.
Tucson, Arizona, USA
'82 CBX, among others.
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Re: Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
For at least the last 25 years, the automotive companies have been using TXL, GXL or SXL graded wire.
All of these have a higher temperature rating, higher abrasion level and a much higher sealing capability than the (cheap) GPT wire Honda used on our bikes.
If you solder onto the stock wiring you'll almost always melt the insulation creating other problems.
The only way to improve the CBX harness is to fabricate the ENTIRE harness with today's materials (wire, sealed connectors, and terminals).
For the purpose of clarity, connectors are the plastic parts. TERMINALS are the metal parts that TERMINATE the wire end.
Don't get me wrong, on every terminal of a critical circuit on every race car I wire, I solder the terminals for added insurance. However, this is a learned technique so as not to apply too much heat or solder to the joint.
All of these have a higher temperature rating, higher abrasion level and a much higher sealing capability than the (cheap) GPT wire Honda used on our bikes.
If you solder onto the stock wiring you'll almost always melt the insulation creating other problems.
The only way to improve the CBX harness is to fabricate the ENTIRE harness with today's materials (wire, sealed connectors, and terminals).
For the purpose of clarity, connectors are the plastic parts. TERMINALS are the metal parts that TERMINATE the wire end.
Don't get me wrong, on every terminal of a critical circuit on every race car I wire, I solder the terminals for added insurance. However, this is a learned technique so as not to apply too much heat or solder to the joint.
- Kool_Biker
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Re: Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
Been following quietly the debate on soldering I've helped kickstart, and love how much know how is amassed amongst all of us.
Keeps reminding me what a genuinely great Forum this is.
Now from my own 25+ year experience, I respect but cannot entirely agree with the statement below.
Granted, you need to know what you are doing. As always experience plays a major role, just like in most of the things we do to keep our CBX's alive and well.
Keep up the good work.
Aris
Keeps reminding me what a genuinely great Forum this is.
Now from my own 25+ year experience, I respect but cannot entirely agree with the statement below.
I repeatedly solder in these old Honda harnesses as I need to, always following the sequence I initially described above, quite successfully.CBX-tras wrote: If you solder onto the stock wiring you'll almost always melt the insulation creating other problems.
Granted, you need to know what you are doing. As always experience plays a major role, just like in most of the things we do to keep our CBX's alive and well.
Keep up the good work.
Aris
Aris Hadjiaslanis
ICOA # 6309
Berkshire, Windsor
ICOA # 6309
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Re: Quick 'n dirty tutorial on replacing Hitachi connectors
I dread working on anything electrical on either cars or motorcycles. I just don't understand the whole thing of the stuff that you can't see, hear or smell (as long as it isn't causing a fire).
My skills are less than adequate in that area and that includes soldering. I just don't do it enough to master a good soldered connection. Consequently whatever I solder together is bound to come apart again after a while.
My skills are less than adequate in that area and that includes soldering. I just don't do it enough to master a good soldered connection. Consequently whatever I solder together is bound to come apart again after a while.