The International CBX Owners Association

Does anybody have any tips on improving access to plugs 2 & 5? I do need to pull the plugs fairly regularly with my tuned race motor.

I have lifted my CB1100 oil cooler up but find the engine hangers (see pic) and depth of the plugs still make it difficult to get the damn things out easily. Then trying to finger start re-installing them is an even bigger pain.

I have thought of cutting the middle out of my alloy hanger plates but do not know whether this will unduly weaken them. Another option is removing them b4 tackling the plugs but I do not like this option because I already have helicoils in the frame and pulling them off regularly is only going to eventually cause problems with the helicoils.

Any pictures of cut down hangars might help or any other suggestions would be appreciated.

I remove the tank for easier access to the plugs. Use a long extension with a 18mm swivel plug socket. Don't forget, the torque is only 9 ft. lbs. or you'll be helicoiling the plugs holes too.

That forward bracket (yours isn't stock) holds a lot of stress and the motor should be supported and lifted somewhat from the underside to relieve that stress before removal. Never take that bracket off without doing that. Especially now that the frame attachment has been compromised.
Since yours are aluminum and not as strong as steel, I wouldn't modify them at all.

You can somewhat easily get the plugs lout. Just let them 'fall' when they are out of the threads and fish them out with a needle nose. To install, put a piece of fuel hose over the plug end. With that you can get the plug started into the threads a turn or two. Then, slide a socket over it and complete the install. Works quite well with my 82 fairing and all.

The rubber hose is Roly's method too, thanks Larry. I still find it fiddly, especially at the track when you are invariably in a hurry.

I can remove my tank in a few minutes without removing my seat . I use a quick fuel disconnect, a 12 mm ratchet spanner and then lift my oil cooler out of the way (it like so many things on a race bike is only attached with cable ties) but even with custom made plug spanners #2 and #5 are problematic, particularly when re-installing. As CB-Extra suggests the last thing you want is a cross threaded spark plug and so finger sensitivity is key.

Therein lies the problem. When you have to do things quickly in a less than ideal environment. I've had the hangars off but only one at a time. I suspect slight mis-alignments when the engine has been dropped is precisely why the frame threads were originally stripped.

I'm sure I've seen other alloy or perhaps chromalloy hangers that were shaped like an open triangle. They do not each have to carry the entire 100 kilo weight of the motor after all and if you could get your fingers thru' it would make starting the thread so much easier.

I hoped somebody might have a pic of such a design in use?