camera mounting

[wyly]

For insurance purposes a camera is probably our best friend when there are disputes with other motorists (and recording some great adventures ) I asked previously on another thread where the best place to mount a GoPro would be. One member suggested the front fender, another the crash bars. The front fender mount adhesive may damage the oem fender paint and the crash bars are too big for the camera clamps. I clamped my camera to the left indicator stalk, even with 170 degree view the only obstruction is the headlight on the extreme right edge of the image, maybe a loss of 5 degrees. Good visibility and it's easy to remove the camera when I leave my bike unattended.


The problem that I have is vibration at anything over 50k-30mph blurring the image. I've spent a few hours searching the web for solutions but it appears to be common problem without a practical solution other than attaching it to the helmet or chest. I'm sure with the impressive combined brain power of this forum we could come up with a solution.

Another cycle website identified some basic causes and solutions for vibration.
-the longer the mounting stalk the more sensitive it is to speed and vibration.
-the more joints required for mounting increase the number of points for vibration to occur.
-the further away from the engine the less vibration there is, but then your mounting the camera further back and obstructing the view.
-the camera needs to fixed securely but that then negates the clamps rubber cushion's purpose of isolating vibration from the engine.
-helmet mounts work well but they cause noticeable drag and neck fatigue on longer ride.
-chest mount requires a harness that's cumbersome interfering with jacket zippers/pocket access and when you arrive at you destination now have deal with stowing camera and webbing/harness, with a bike mount you can just slip the camera in your pocket. Not an ideal setup for shorter commutes.
-leg mount, lose 50% of the viewing angle.
-arm mount, I need to try but I suspect there will be a lot of body adjustments that will reduce the quality of the video.

Right now I'm looking for ways to shorten the mounting stalk (and still retain an unobstructed view) and different types of rubber/foam combination to isolate the clamp mount from the indicator stalk.

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

Are you using the stock handlebars?
Couldn't you rig some sort of round post where the hole is half way up the handlebar. and then use it for the mounting hardware.
I have Tommaselli clip-ons and there was room on the bar.

[Sharpie66]

Hi Wyly. I just went through the same issues this past summer with my GoPro. Any place I put the mounts I had too much vibration, bouncing or was inaccessible to turn on and off. I found that having access to the camera was the biggest key for me as I have the older GoPro and need to be able to reach the buttons. The newer GoPro 4 has a very neat feature in that you can connect to your smart phone and control the camera operation via the GoPro app. A friend who rides with me has this setup and it allowed him to put the camera anywhere on his bike and have full control of the unit through his phone which he has mounted on his handlebars. Ultimately, I went with the helmet mount using a single curved mounting base. Accessing the camera's functions....on-off, record, stop recording... was at times annoying because I couldn't tell if I was recording or not. There is also the additional drag and neck fatigue you mentioned as well. The biggest plus to a helmet mount, however, is that you have complete control of where you are recording simply by moving your head in whatever direction you want. Makes for some great footage.

If I were to do it all over, I would use the GoPro4 combined with the smart phone app. I keep my phone in my tank bag and then I would be able to put the camera any place on my X and confirm when the camera is on-off and recording. Good luck and keep us updated.

Patrick

[hondaman160mph]

I mounted my GoPro to the crash bar using a mount kit of various brackets I bought from Amazon. Easy to get the angle you want and no issues with vibration.

[EMS]

Do not mount a camera on the helmet. You will find out that you are looking everywhere EXCEPT where yo want the camera to point.

[wyly]

I find watching videos from helmet mounted cameras disorientating. Tomorrow I plan on making modifications at my current location on the indicator stem and see if I can improve the results at that location first. The viewpoint is excellent but the vibration maybe to much to overcome.

[Larry Zimmer]

Do not mount a camera on the helmet. You will find out that you are looking everywhere EXCEPT where yo want the camera to point.

Ditto that one, Mike.

[Sharpie66]

Do not mount a camera on the helmet. You will find out that you are looking everywhere EXCEPT where yo want the camera to point.

I do not wish to argue with anyone or discount anyone's opinion being we are all grown men who make choices based on our individuality. However, here it comes, after recording close to 200 hours of footage last season I found the helmet mount did what I wanted it too.....recording exactly where I pointed. I have great sweeping, panoramic views of beautiful landscapes....the MidWest, Mt. Rushmore, thousands of bikes around me, NYC from the Verrazano Bridge, the Atlantic Ocean from the Fire Islands, the mountains of Vermont. One of my favorite shots is from a group of rough and tough Harley riders who rode right up to me and when I pointed at the camera on my helmet each one of them gave me a thumbs up or pumped their fists in the air. As I was in the slow lane and they were in the fast line, I would not have got this footage without being able to turn my head and point the camera where I wanted to record. Instead I found one of the drawbacks from a helmet mount was that it could be distracting from where my helmet should be pointing..the road ahead. I think ultimately it boils down to why you are recording road footage....passively for insurance reasons or actively to record everything around you. Much easier to turn your head than your bike. Also keep in mind that if your interest is to actively record road trips, all those hours of footage get edited down into a 2-3 minute video.

My advice is to have a few mounts located throughout your bike and a helmet mount so that if you are actively recording a road trip you have different views to edit into your final video.

Patrick

[Larry Zimmer]

Good feedback, Patrick. Food for thought. Thanks,

[wyly]

I think ultimately it boils down to why you are recording road footage....passively for insurance reasons or actively to record everything around you.

very good points. If you're going to attach it to a helmet then you need to think like a cinematographer and adjust accordingly.

[wyly]

Changed the position of the camera stalk today from a vertical position to 90 degrees forward to reduce wind buffeting...then I tightened every joint on the mounting stalk as much as possible, and snugged down the headlight assembly.

much better results
-the first run there was still considerable bouncing but I had increased the magnification on the camera which exaggerated the road bumps and engine vibration.
-2nd run I returned the camera to normal setting and that yielded better results.
-moving the camera stalk to horizontal position resulted in a full 170 degree field of view and no obstruction from the headlight, nothing but open road.
-I'll search the camera suppliers for a different stalk that can simplify the arrangement I have now, fewer joints, less vibration.
For collision insurance purposes it's probably good enough as is but I think I can improve it a bit more. I may still try mounting on the crash bar thereby moving it closer to the center of mass which in theory should help but may be cancelled out by being closer to the engine.

For scenic shots a helmet mount maybe the best option, there are several companies developing internal camera systems (forward and rear) which would solve the drag issues of external helmet mounts.