The International CBX Owners Association

FalldownPhil wrote:There are a few "thingy's" related to this system. There is also a neutral start switch and a diode hidden in your wiring harness.
Very Best,
Phil

Phil,
Thanks for the info.

I went looking for the 'thingy' mentioned in your earlier post (switch in your clutch lever plugged in?) and of course not knowing what I was looking for couldn't determine if that was the problem.

And now there are more 'thingys' to be concerned with. Resolving this problem looks to be even more of an irritant than finding neutral after stop and go traffic in 100 degree temperatures.

But I genuinely appreciate your attempt to help this nerd.

peter

Phil,

I almost forgot.

Happy Independence Day. Hope you got time for a long ride on a great bike road.

sasquash wrote:Phil,

I almost forgot.

Happy Independence Day. Hope you got time for a long ride on a great bike road.

Thank You Sir !! Brexit 1776 I am pretty much locked in here on the Fourth. They do a big fireworks show
here in the marina and it is a traffic nightmare.

There should be two wires going into a little switch in the clutch lever perch right next to the choke lever.
The two wires come out of the wiring for the left side handlebar switch. Turn signals, H/L beam, Horn.
Similar to the switch on the right side M/C that go to the brake light.
Best,
Phil

I was hoping to save my summer with my GS but what I thought would be an easy to solve charging issue appears to be more.
I installed a new Ricks stator and R/R and both test okay, battery at idle sits at about 12.75 to 12.8.
When I raise the rpm to 5000 the voltage to the battery doesn't reach the required 14-15.5volts.
Is there something else I need to look for?
Am I doing something wrong with my testing.

Original problem was the battery draining as I was riding, and wouldn't restart if I made more than one stop.

Does it go up at all when you raise the RPM ?
Phil

a small amount...I'll try it again in the morning and get a number on that, can't recall the exact number at the moment and winding it up to 5k won't please the neighbors at this hour

You only need about 2500 rpms to see voltage jump above 13 or so.
I went through the same ordeal with my cbx. Tested everything and determined that rectifier/regulator was bad and after I installed it and went for a ride, after break, bike wouldn't start. I checked and re-checked everything multiple times and what I found at the end is that the R/R plug had connectors that didn't fit tightly over the alternator connector. After I squeezed them a bit and made tight fit, things were good and I never had problem after that

So Wyly, how did you determine that the stator and R/R were bad, and maybe not the rotor? If Suzuki is like Honda, those components almost never go bad. It's usually the rotor and that's easy to check. My bet is the rotor is bad.

Dave

daves79x wrote:So Wyly, how did you determine that the stator and R/R were bad, and maybe not the rotor? If Suzuki is like Honda, those components almost never go bad. It's usually the rotor and that's easy to check. My bet is the rotor is bad.

Dave

a local cbx buddy also a long time Suzuki collector said stators were a common failure for the gs and if that went the r/r would fail soon as well...and the old stator I removed was not original with only 29k kms on the engine

I tested the output of the stator with a multi meter, the GSresources forum has an entire checklist for testing for charging failure and I haven't come across any for testing of the rotor.

went through the check list of tests and the stator failed the ohms test between stator wires and the casing .9 .9 and .4
I'm told by an engineer they should be infinite resistance or OL

stator wire to battery negative terminal at 5k rpm all three should read zero, I had two at 24v and only one at zero ...

Dave, here's the GS check list http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php
it's quite a learning curve for a guy whose electrical shop teacher "highly" recommended I not take any higher level classes

Ya, those imaginary numbers in electronics always cause me problems.
I had a shop teacher like that. He said "You should never work with wood because you sucked at it".
I ended up getting Certification as a Journeyman Carpenter and made a career of working with wood.
When I think back on those days I get really

I admit I let myself be intimidated by electronic things I can't see and touch that's part of my problem, unlike the mechanical side of cycles...and then there's the trusting of other electronic testing gizmos to tell me what's happening and if I'm even using them correctly

wyly wrote:I admit I let myself be intimidated by electronic things I can't see and touch that's part of my problem, unlike the mechanical side of cycles...and then there's the trusting of other electronic testing gizmos to tell me what's happening and if I'm even using them correctly

I know how you feel!

Success! I consulted a Electrical engineer over at GSresources, then a local engine rebuilder and then watch a dozen youtube videos on stator testing...the problem originated in the stator as the tests were showing but they were my fault ...I tested the stator before I installed it ... when the tests came back with different results indicating a ground at the stator, I took of the cover and found I'd pinched one of the three wires coming out, grounding it to the casing...the wire wasn't broken only the covering so I covered it up with with two layers of shrink wrap and put it all back together...

I have a 20% increase in voltage, 100v at 5K rpm and 14.25v on the battery at idle...

There you go,
Congratulations, now you are expert ;)