82 Rotors

SPLINTER · Post by **SPLINTER** » Thu Apr 29, 2010 1:53 pm

Can annyoe tell me if and where I could take my rotors to either get ground or turned? I seem to be running in to a lot of walls. Not with the bike...only with my efforts. Glad I got that cvleared up.

NobleHops · Post by **NobleHops** » Thu Apr 29, 2010 6:55 pm

Updating this post years later for the benefit of future searchers.

www.truedisk.net will do a perfect job resurfacing your CBX rotors. Has done upwards of 50 of them for me by now.

N.

SPLINTER · Post by **SPLINTER** » Thu Apr 29, 2010 7:33 pm

Nils, thanks for taking the time to respond. As much as I hate to say so, they do need to be resurfaced. They have pretty bad groves. However I do have 1 mm before I'm at the min. limit.

Jeff Bennetts · Post by **Jeff Bennetts** » Thu Apr 29, 2010 7:54 pm

Whats a good set of used ones going for?

NobleHops · Post by **NobleHops** » Thu Apr 29, 2010 8:03 pm

Jeff Bennetts wrote:Whats a good set of used ones going for?

Hard to say for me - A guy on eBay a few months back had some ridiculous reserve on a set ($60 each at 4-5mm IIRC) wouldn't entertain a lower offer after the auction closed. I suppose I should just let Louis answer that.

N.

EMS · Post by **EMS** » Thu Apr 29, 2010 8:05 pm

Jeff Bennetts wrote:Whats a good set of used ones going for?

Unfortunately the vented Prolink rotors are becoming more and more expensive. One factor contributing to it is, that there are many who convert early models to later model forks and brakes. And if you ask one of our helpful used parts vendors, they will quote you $400.- per set. One alternative worth checking are GL1100 rotors. There is a vented variety of these. They are slightly thinner than the CBX parts but still fine with good pads. And the lack of thickness offsets the heavier center part a little, as that is a solid disc and not slotted. I think the year is 1982, GL1100 Interstate only.

Jeff Bennetts · Post by **Jeff Bennetts** » Thu Apr 29, 2010 8:41 pm

$400.00 clams for a used set?, Damn I may have to dig out that set I have in the garage and see what kind of shape they are in.

EMS · Post by **EMS** » Fri Apr 30, 2010 7:27 am

Jeff Bennetts wrote:$400.00 clams for a used set?, Damn I may have to dig out that set I have in the garage and see what kind of shape they are in.

Jeff: I am not saying they are worth that much. I have about 5 or so sets, and I wouldn't dare to ask that kind of money. But as you know, there is a vital interest by some to push the prices up. Maybe as a club, we can do something about it. That's why we are going to have a Director position dedicated to exactly that: Making an effort to establish sources to provide parts for reasonable prices.

SPLINTER · Post by **SPLINTER** » Fri Apr 30, 2010 9:13 am

Hi EMS...looks like you take the cake as far as postings. Let me ask you a quick question: A gentleman JR @ CBX-tras has offered to send these to a machine shop he's been using for years that will turn them down. Have you heard of any success stories along those lines? I do have a full 1mm to work with. Total run out all the way around is .006 in. What's your opinion? In addition have you heard of this shop?

Bailey's Machine & Engine Parts
727 N Country Club Dr
Mesa,AZ85201-4910
Local: (480) 962-9756

also recommended by a highly knowledgeable member. They however would use the Blanchard method.

Jeff Bennetts · Post by **Jeff Bennetts** » Fri Apr 30, 2010 9:55 am

If you plan on keeping the bike why don't you look for some good used rotors?

EMS · Post by **EMS** » Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:02 am

Splinter: I have not heard of the shop, nor have I ever refaced CBX rotors. JR, however, is a reputable CBXer and does good work on the alternator conversions and other CBX related projects.
The "Blanchard" method is a rotary grinding process where a magnetic chuck holds the piece. It is commonly used in the maufacturing process of new rotors to finish. I heard of it being used to reface brake rotors before, but can't say how the final results hold up against conventional "turning". My concern would be the surfaces being perpendicular relative to the axis if the mounting surface isn't properly "trued" and the rotors then parallel ground to the mounting surface. It can also be expensive.

SPLINTER · Post by **SPLINTER** » Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:13 am

I will work with JR. He seems to have a very good reputation. Thanks for taking the time to respond. I will post results after I try stoping at the first stop light.

Don · Post by **Don** » Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:47 am

I've never understood the vented rotors on the ProLinks . . . . even racing the bike likely wouldn't overheat non-vented rotors . . . . what were they thinking? Looking at the brakes, you'd expect to see a trailer hitch on the back and a dump truck trailer behind ;))

If I had an '81 or '82, the first change I would make would be to get rid of them - Go with 900F or 1100F rotors and calipers which are cheap to find in great condition. My '79 has a complete ProLink front end except for 900F brakes and they look better, are lighter and cost much less than the $400 for a used set of late model rotors

Just another option to consider

Don

NobleHops · Post by **NobleHops** » Fri Apr 30, 2010 11:01 am

Don wrote:I've never understood the vented rotors on the ProLinks . . . . even racing the bike likely wouldn't overheat non-vented rotors . . . . what were they thinking? Looking at the brakes, you'd expect to see a trailer hitch on the back and a dump truck trailer behind ;))

If I had an '81 or '82, the first change I would make would be to get rid of them - Go with 900F or 1100F rotors and calipers which are cheap to find in great condition. My '79 has a complete ProLink front end except for 900F brakes and they look better, are lighter and cost much less than the $400 for a used set of late model rotors

Just another option to consider

Don

Hmm. As I understand the principle behind brakes, it's simply an exchange of kinetic energy for thermal, and so anything that dissipates the thermal energy quicker (eg vents) would make it more efficient. I think the other purported benefit of drilled rotors is better ability to shed water. Then of course there is the potential to make them lighter, less rotating mass at the end of the chassis, quicker turning, etc.

Now, whether or not any of this purported benefit is meaningful on an old-tech single-piston braking system on a 30-year old bike is left to the imagination of the reader, but I sure would like some better brakes.

N.

daves79x · Post by **daves79x** » Fri Apr 30, 2010 12:35 pm

The vented rotors on the Pro-Links are way overkill. As Don said, 900F rotors will bolt right up and you can use the lighter conventional twin-piston calipers from the 900F or many other Hondas. Even the early model rotors will bolt right up to any CBX Comstar and allow use of the conventional 2-pot calipers. The 900F rotors just look better IMO.

Nils - I'd find a 900F set of rotors and calipers and maybe even a better master cylinder. Your master cylinder may be part of the spongy brake problem also. If the bore is even slightly pitted, you'll have spongy brakes. Any master cylinder from that era will work (5/8 bore). 750F, 900F, 1100F many others also.

Randakk also sells a modern master cylinder conversion that's pretty trick.

Dave

The International CBX Owners Association

82 Rotors

82 Rotors

Re: 82 Rotors