Mobile 1 Racing 4T (MX4T) 10W-40

Postby alimey4u2 » Sat Apr 07, 2007 12:09 pm

Good case in point Mike, lots of possible urban myths out there that need to be vanquished..... :thumupp:
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Re: clutch slipping

Postby Mike Barone #123 » Sat Apr 07, 2007 12:27 pm

I guess the confusion still may linger because: If it is just the friction modifiers affecting clutches, why do BMW and Harley, where the motor oil never comes in contact with the clucth or transmission, for example, insist on MC specific oils. Same as with all those bikes that run with dry clutches, e.g.: Ducati.[/quote]


Here is one explanation..........company beancounters and attorneys want the maximum reasons they can get out of a warranty claim vs the minimum.

When any company inc HD or BMW gets a motor warranty claim, their first obligation is to the company.... not the customer ....to ensure the claim is valid.

The more "outs" a company has the better it is for them and a great out is if the customer did not follow some "super fine print warranty section" and this allows them to get out of warranty coverage at their option...

Good example: My Caponord would throw a rear spoke or two every a couple of times each riding season. Ofcourse after the first instance I had my dealer order 8 rear spokes but in the end we still had ride with 2 or so missing spokes often.

Finally I got fed up with this after the fourth time and ask for a complete new rear wheel.

Aprilia put me on trial over this and it went on for 3 months at which time I got determined to not give in....all of this over a rim that I estimated cost Aprilia $100 or less. Finally they sent my dealer a new rim COD to handle this "right away" vs the right way via warranty shipments to dealers ....and I found out later my dealer was never reimbursed. Another novel way for a company to get out of investing any money in a warranty claim.............creative dont you think!!!!!!!!!!

LESSON...............Some companies will do everything they can get out of a warranty claim or helping customers butt nomatter what beancounters and attorneys want the most flexabilty in refusing warranty claims as possible..........and this is one of the reasons companies ...even.... HD and BMW ask customers do the most vs the least in maintaining their bikes to qual for warranty claims.

My view anyway...............but usually wrong here as you all know


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Re: clutch slipping

Postby Mike Nixon » Sun Apr 08, 2007 12:00 pm

EMS wrote:
Mike Nixon wrote: Every major powersports manufacturer has published a service bulletin warning their dealers to not use SH or later duty rated oils, UNLESS they also include the MA stamp. Further, if you look at the manual of a powersports vehicle made since 1998, you will see the following: "Use SG, or use current rating with MA tag." :)


I guess the confusion still may linger because: If it is just the friction modifiers affecting clutches, why do BMW and Harley, where the motor oil never comes in contact with the clucth or transmission, for example, insist on MC specific oils. Same as with all those bikes that run with dry clutches, e.g.: Ducati.


They insist on mc specific oils because the friction modifiers aren't the only issue, just the only one the OEMs have addressed directly. The other issues include the amount of anti-wear agents, for example, many of which have been removed in auto oil because of catalytic converters (though of course they are now increasing on bikes) which don't live as long in the presence of some of the additives that the powersports industry has been taking for granted. For more detail on this, I refer you do the following link.

http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorc ... oroil.html

:)
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Postby Douglas » Wed Jan 13, 2010 7:47 am

EMS wrote:I think I remember somebody saying the problem with car oils is not so much the clutch slipping but the transmission in the motorcycles. Most bikes -except those with a pre-WWII design non-unit motor - have one oil for motor and tranny. The gears supposedly need a set of additives that car-specific oils don't usually provide. I also remember something about wear inhibitors in car oils that supposedly have a negative effect on bike motors. Don't recall which. I use Mobil 1 in all my cars, but motorcycle specific oil in the bikes.


hey-Hey!!!,
From the transmission folks on the big Dodge gearbox:
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/89-93 ... etrag.html

And of course I have to add that I do trans development for a living and motor oil does a fine job. The special additive package *IS* required for hypoids normally found in RWD axles and I don't think there is anything like that in a CBX trans. Gear loading isn't as bad as that across the cam lobes...:)
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Postby alimey4u2 » Wed Jan 13, 2010 1:06 pm

hey-Hey!!!, Douglas, welcome to the site... 8) :thumupp:
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Postby Don » Wed Feb 24, 2010 7:26 pm

Here's a listing of oils rated JASO MA or better. Handy to have if you want to use a 'correct' motorcycle oil in your pride and joy

http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf

You'll notice that automotive Mobil One isn't on the list . . . . but hundreds of other brands/formulations are - Plenty there to choose from

Mobil 1 does make a motorcycle specific formulation called 'Mobil 1 V Twin 20W-50 4 cycle Fully Synthetic MOTORCYCLE OIL and you can find it at most Wal Mart stores for less than $10 per quart. On the back, in addition to the JASO MA you'll find 'Specifically designed for air-cooled engines, transmissions and wet clutch primaries'

Good enough for me

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Postby TerryL » Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:15 pm

I couldn't find my oil on that list so here it is. Good stuff!

Amsoil full synthetic motorcycle oil 10w40

API SG, SL/CF; JASO MA; API GL-1
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Re: clutch slipping

Postby Mike Nixon » Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:23 pm

EMS wrote:
Mike Nixon wrote: Every major powersports manufacturer has published a service bulletin warning their dealers to not use SH or later duty rated oils, UNLESS they also include the MA stamp. Further, if you look at the manual of a powersports vehicle made since 1998, you will see the following: "Use SG, or use current rating with MA tag." :)


I guess the confusion still may linger because: If it is just the friction modifiers affecting clutches, why do BMW and Harley, where the motor oil never comes in contact with the clucth or transmission, for example, insist on MC specific oils. Same as with all those bikes that run with dry clutches, e.g.: Ducati.


Almost three years late, well, better late than never, I guess. :oops: Well, actually they do come in contact with clutches. Remember the MA rating is for both friction clutches and for sprag clutches, the latter of which is found in almost all powersorts engines. Even personal watercraft service manuals mandate JASO MA oil.
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Postby CBX-tras » Thu Feb 25, 2010 9:37 am

To answer the original question about Mobil 1 MX4T 10w-40 oil, I run it in all my CBXs with absolutely no issues.
Whether it needs it or not the oil is changed once a year and it always looks just like I poured it out of the can.

Classic and historic vehicles (CBX included) IMHO, need the best care to sustain their longevity with continued use. CBXs tend to roast oil, use the best you can find.

If your bike broke down in the middle of BFE somewhere because of the oil, you'd cheerfully give double the money you thought you saved not to be there.

Mobil 1 and Amsoil are the best:
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

My 2 cents.

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Postby EMS » Thu Feb 25, 2010 10:22 am

CBX-tras wrote: Whether it needs it or not the oil is changed once a year J.R.


For those of us who have a non-riding (means bike storage) season of almost 5 months, this should be a must! Change it before you park the bike to remove all moisture and crap with the old oil.
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Postby Mopar_Tony_SF1 » Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:04 pm

I read somewhere the Mobile 1 is the 3rd best MC oil in a taper shear test, next to Klotz and the Amway stuff. A good oil.

BTW, new Shell 5W40 t6 API CJ4 synthetic diesel engine oil carries JASO MA certification. That's a very interesting deal, and a statement about the power of the internet and quality of the oil. Based on commercial, proprietary test data I have seen, this Shell product is friggin' incredible.

http://www-static.shell.com/static/can- ... ochure.pdf
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Postby Rick Pope » Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:31 pm

I know it's old news, but several years ago, Motorcycle Consumer News did an exhaustive test of popular oils. Shell Rotella T topped the non-synthetics, and in fact beat some of them. I run it in all my diesels, and some of my bikes.

If the new Shell oil is that good, I may give it a try.
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Postby Terry » Thu Feb 25, 2010 8:40 pm

[quote="Mopar_Tony_SF1"]I read somewhere the Mobile 1 is the 3rd best MC oil in a taper shear test, next to Klotz and the Amway stuff. A good oil.

BTW, new Shell 5W40 t6 API CJ4 synthetic diesel engine oil carries JASO MA certification. That's a very interesting deal, and a statement about the power of the internet and quality of the oil. Based on commercial, proprietary test data I have seen, this Shell product is friggin' incredible.

http://www-static.shell.com/static/can- ... ochure.pdf[/quote

"Amway stuff" Puleeze! Amsoil, not Amway :lol: BTW, the 82 has just over 97,000 miles with Amsoil since breakin and my Hayabusa has over 30,000 miles on it with Amsoil since breakin. Changing the oil on the Busa I add 4 quarts with filter and next time, 7,500 miles later when I drain it I get back 4 quarts minus maybe 2-3 tablespoons of oil. Good stuff indeed! :D
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Postby EMS » Thu Feb 25, 2010 9:22 pm

Terry wrote: Changing the oil on the Busa I add 4 quarts with filter and next time, 7,500 miles later when I drain it I get back 4 quarts minus maybe 2-3 tablespoons of oil. Good stuff indeed! :D


Terry, you're the first guy I run into, who measures the oil that he drains out of a vehicle :D :D :D That's what I call maintenance 8) 8)
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Postby EMS » Thu Feb 25, 2010 9:24 pm

Rick Pope wrote: Shell Rotella T topped the non-synthetics, and in fact beat some of them. .


Was that supposed to say "topped the synthetics" :? :? :?:
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