Mobile 1 Racing 4T (MX4T) 10W-40

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cbx6ss
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Mobile 1 Racing 4T (MX4T) 10W-40

Post by cbx6ss »

Does anyone have any experience/thoughts on this oil? I saw this for 13.95 a qt at a dealer recently! The following link seems to offer a better deal.

http://store.avlube.com/mob1mx104cyc1.html

Thank you for your thoughts.
Brad

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Post by cbx6ss »

BTW,
Here is a link to the MOBIL Product specs:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Lub ... e_Oils.asp

Brad

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Re: Mobile 1 Racing 4T (MX4T) 10W-40

Post by Mike Barone #123 »

cbx6ss wrote:Does anyone have any experience/thoughts on this oil? I saw this for 13.95 a qt at a dealer recently! The following link seems to offer a better deal.

http://store.avlube.com/mob1mx104cyc1.html

Thank you for your thoughts.
Brad
Hi Brad

For everyone not at the CBXman Winter Rally check this short video of Dave McMunn removing the cylinder for the first time from a 100k mile CBX motor that used the regular Mobil 1 15/50 synthetic car oil. Pistons were in perfect shape........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_u-D4vfUjw

Soooooooo my opinion based on shall we say this real world CBX motor oil happening where we all know the moron who owned this CBX in question never really maintained it that much......

.....is....... save your money on $13.95 Mobil 1 racing oil and simply buy the Mobil 1 15/50 car oil .......or...... ....if you want to reallllly make a big move go for the Mobil 1 15/50 Extended 15,000 mile car oil.

Both avail at Pep Boys other outlets ..... for $6 or so.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

If you CBX smokes a bit.........Mobil one does cut blue exhaust smoke on hard acceleration and deacceleration along with shift better.

Mini wetness at the valve cover gasket can happen and I think once someone said their clutch slipped using Mobil 1 which never would happen with me since I never twisted the throttle that hard to cause this kind of clutch stress. :lol::crazy::lol::crazy::lol::crazy::lol::crazy::lol::crazy::lol::crazy::lol:


See you soon..........right



Mike

Mike
Last edited by Mike Barone #123 on Fri Apr 06, 2007 10:35 am, edited 6 times in total.
My CBX lives near Harrisburg, Pa USA
Team222 = 2 Ole, 2 Fat and wayyyy 2 Slow

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Re: Mobile 1 Racing 4T (MX4T) 10W-40

Post by broook »

Mike Barone #123 wrote:[.....is....... save your money on $13.95 Mobil 1 racing oil and simply buy the Mobil 1 15/50 Regular oil
When you say "regular" do you mean car oil or regular m/cycle oil????

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Re: Mobile 1 Racing 4T (MX4T) 10W-40

Post by Mike Barone #123 »

broook wrote:
Mike Barone #123 wrote:[.....is....... save your money on $13.95 Mobil 1 racing oil and simply buy the Mobil 1 15/50 Regular oil
When you say "regular" do you mean car oil or regular m/cycle oil????

Good q Bob

I am not sure when Mobil 1 synthetic came out .....but back then there was no motorcycle variant....just the car oil ....and that is what I used all along.

I fixed my reply above to say Mobil 1 15-50 "car" oil.

Thx and good catch


Mike
My CBX lives near Harrisburg, Pa USA
Team222 = 2 Ole, 2 Fat and wayyyy 2 Slow

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Post by broook »

Thanks Mike.
On a number of sites I frequent it always ends up with somebody saying that regular car synthetics make the clutch slip and that is why Mobil makes specific oil for M/Cycles. I know the few hundred miles I put on the Dawg I never had any clutch slip and I am sure nobody rode it harder than you ever did. :lol:
I was thinking about putting it in my V-Max this spring but will probibly stay with the Yamalube. I think that is synthetic.

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Post by EMS »

I think I remember somebody saying the problem with car oils is not so much the clutch slipping but the transmission in the motorcycles. Most bikes -except those with a pre-WWII design non-unit motor - have one oil for motor and tranny. The gears supposedly need a set of additives that car-specific oils don't usually provide. I also remember something about wear inhibitors in car oils that supposedly have a negative effect on bike motors. Don't recall which. I use Mobil 1 in all my cars, but motorcycle specific oil in the bikes.

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clutch slipping

Post by Mike Nixon »

There are two important labels on any container of engine oil. One is the viscosity, whose parameters are established and monitored by the SAE, the Society of Automotive Engineers. The second is the service duty rating, which is controlled by another group in Pennsylvania called the American Petroleum Institute, or API. An oil's service duty is essentially an indicator of the oil's toughness, that is, how hard can the oil be abused and still work okay. How much can the oil be heated and cooled repeatedly while resisting sludging. How much moisture can it accomodate. How much crap can it scour off internal engine components and then carry that stuff around with it as it continues to do its job in the engine's lubrication passages. The earliest duty ratings began in the 1940s with the SA designation, which stands for spark ignition engine, level A. The next rating, occuring several years later, was the SB designation, and so on, upgrading every so often. By 1995, the duty rating reached SG, due mostly to advances in engine design and the manufacturer's consequent extension of service intervals.

This same year, 1995, the feds, seeking someone other than engine manufacturers and fuel refiners to bother about emissions, went after the lubricant formulators. Their mandate -- to make engine oil produce a 3% fuel economy increase in the typical car. This was good news to the oil packagers, as they had this technology (friction modified oil) ready and waiting. But it was bad news for the powersports industry, whose engines have two components, friction clutches and sprag clutches, which do not work correctly with friction modified oil. To protect their interests, the powersports industry established a new classification that essentially amounts to an exemption from the friction modifier mandate. This special classification is called MA.

The industry today takes two tacts. Some powersports engine lubricant suppliers respond to the issue by continuing to offer SG (old-school, pre friction modifier era) oil. Unfortunately, they do not sell in major automotive outlets, so you won't find them there. Most other powersports suppliers however simply market the current duty rated oil, which today has reached the SL level, but make sure it has a tweak in the standard SL specification in that it has not had the friction modifiers added, thus assigning it the exemptive designation, MA. All other oil supppliers simply follow the current duty rating specification, including the addition of friction modifiers, as that is the mandate. Every major powersports manufacturer has published a service bulletin warning their dealers to not use SH or later duty rated oils, UNLESS they also include the MA stamp. Further, if you look at the manual of a powersports vehicle made since 1998, you will see the following: "Use SG, or use current rating with MA tag." :)

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Post by alimey4u2 »

Thanks Mike, Posts like that transcend the bounds of one mark.... 8)
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Post by Mike Nixon »

Thanks! :)

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Post by EMS »

That is one fine post, however, it doesn't tell the non-engineer or plain motorcyclist anything other than that he is supposed to buy what the bike manufacturer tells him. It would be good to explain why..... 8)

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Post by Mike Barone #123 »

broook wrote:Thanks Mike.
On a number of sites I frequent it always ends up with somebody saying that regular car synthetics make the clutch slip and that is why Mobil makes specific oil for M/Cycles. I know the few hundred miles I put on the Dawg I never had any clutch slip and I am sure nobody rode it harder than you ever did. :lol:
I was thinking about putting it in my V-Max this spring but will probibly stay with the Yamalube. I think that is synthetic.

Mini Perspective: If oil was some big time deal not done exacly right something real bad would happen....wouldnt you think we all would see hundreds of cars and bikes used for daily transportation along the side the road each year with blown engines due to abuse/neglect of those that did not follow the "oil rules" to the T !!!!!!!!!!!!!

For CBX stuff, I like try to balance articles people provide here with first hand experience on the specific issues also posted here before I make up my mind on what to do

In this case, I was able to contribute the first hand experience about something for a change and help others by citing specific evidence that Mobil 1 15/50 regular car oil did wonders in a CBX for 100k miles. So adding that to the other posts in this thread makes a nice tidy balance and agreement to the topic in my view. Do you agree?


Mike
My CBX lives near Harrisburg, Pa USA
Team222 = 2 Ole, 2 Fat and wayyyy 2 Slow

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Re: clutch slipping

Post by EMS »

Mike Nixon wrote: Every major powersports manufacturer has published a service bulletin warning their dealers to not use SH or later duty rated oils, UNLESS they also include the MA stamp. Further, if you look at the manual of a powersports vehicle made since 1998, you will see the following: "Use SG, or use current rating with MA tag." :)
I guess the confusion still may linger because: If it is just the friction modifiers affecting clutches, why do BMW and Harley, where the motor oil never comes in contact with the clucth or transmission, for example, insist on MC specific oils. Same as with all those bikes that run with dry clutches, e.g.: Ducati.

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Post by alimey4u2 »

Somewhere in the distant past I remember that these "modifiers" used in automotive lubricants "may" not be compatible with older internal engine rubber (seals etc. ).....Not sure if that is indeed true but I spose the "safe" thing to do would be to keep to bike specific products....
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Post by Mike Barone #123 »

Sorta reminds me of the OJ thingy.

I still say to this day if OJ had stated as a matter of fact he actually did it..........most of those that said he didnt ..... would continue to say this.

Same here in my view.

We got a CBX motor with 100k miles that the owner as a matter of fact used Mobil 1 15/50 car oil. This CBX motor nearly brand new on teardown......doesnt this sort of trump most of the theory or articles on this or doesnt the reality of a specific oil in a the CBX engine which is the real q really matter at all.

Enquiring minds want to know
My CBX lives near Harrisburg, Pa USA
Team222 = 2 Ole, 2 Fat and wayyyy 2 Slow

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