OIL PRESSURE / TEMPERATURE

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Sat Aug 09, 2008 12:51 pm

As for the light, it kinda bounces around in there until is comes out of the gap between the dial & the outer body. Not much you can do really but uprate the bulb. Not too much as you may overheat the wires or the instrument

Don #6141 · Post by **Don #6141** » Sat Aug 09, 2008 7:20 pm

twinegar wrote:I just added oil pressure and temp gauges to my X. http://www.spookytoms.com/SpookyTom-CBXGauges.html. I checked out all the different brands and settled on VDO and used their black metal cans to mount in. They almost look like they belong on the bike. I will give the other X the same treatment.

I like your install and the gauges match very well. I like the VDO 'cans' too, but they are waaaay longer than they need to be and look a bit strange next to the tach and speedo which are much larger, yet much shallower

How hard would it be to cut them down, so they are only about half as deep as they currently are?

I'm not worried enough about the oil pressure to install a gauge for that, but a single oil temp gauge mounted between the tach and speedo seems like a good idea - They make a trans temp gauge which is calibrated to 400 degrees as well . . . . that might be an even better idea

Don

[Edit] - I checked and they do make a shorter version of the mounting cans. They won't work with all VDO gauges (which is why they also make longer ones) but they will work with the pressure and temp gauges

Also - The 400 degree trans temp gauge can be ordered with any lettering on the face of it that you want . . . . like 'Engine Oil Temp'

This is looking better and better . . . . ;)

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Sat Aug 09, 2008 8:00 pm

There isn't as much room as you think and no way could you cut the can down by half. It would be easy to cut down the cans but you would also have to alter the gauge fastening bracket and wiring plug-ins. The bracket is V shaped extending to the bottom and once the harness is plugged in it is right along side the bracket. I did some manipulating of the assembly in Photoshop and wasn't able to shorten the cans enough to make a visual difference. My initial design included a head temp gauge above and in between the speedo and tach but since VDO is having problems with that gauge I dropped it from the final assembly. If a person installed the VDO reduction ring they could install 1.5 inch mini-gauges and the can could be shortened substantailly but I have never seen a mini-oil temp gauge. Anyway, the aesthetics is in the eye of the beholder and after seeing all the options available to me I selected what I thought was the best looking. No cutting or alteration of the CBX parts was done and the set-up can be removed easily.

Don #6141 · Post by **Don #6141** » Sat Aug 09, 2008 8:17 pm

The DO look very nice!

You show a photo of the short mounting can on your link . . . . but the photo of the ones on your bike are the long ones - See the difference?

For me, mounting a pair of them where you did is out of the question though. For one, I have the sport kit and there's next to no room there with all the cables and for another, I have the 39mm Pro-Link forks with the air connecting tube which runs in that area

I also discovered that there is an unused, flat boss on the oil gallery on the other side of the engine (near the starter) where you could drill and tap to mount any extra sender you wanted, without disturbing the existing oil pressure sender . . . . though that would probably have to be done with the engine out of the bike . . . . or with the carbs off at least

Great project with excellent documentation - I'm sure you've got lots of us thinking . . . . . :)

Don

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Sat Aug 09, 2008 8:30 pm

If you are looking at the picture of the chrome can at the VDO site it is deceptive. The gauge in the picture is larger in diameter thus giving the impression that the can is shorter. If you called and received info from someone there pass on the dimension details. I guess any temp gauge can be used to measure any type of fluid and it is nice that they can alter the graphics on the dial.

The bracket on the bottom of the can is detachable and can be straightened on an anvil. I used a grinder to remove the hammer marks and painted with Dupli-color semi-gloss black. The 12 V was sourced from inside the headlight can using the brown/white wire and the green wire for ground. The 2 signal wires are encased in a small diameter ribbed plastic harness available at the auto parts store. I ran it along the top frame member and dropped it down between and behind #3 and 4 carbs. The oem idiot wire was just long enough to mount to the #2 pole on the sender. I used heat shrink tubing on all the plug-ins running it right down to the end of the plug. I will also be placing a o'ring where the gauge bezels meet the can rim to keep out any moisture. Water can run out the bottom but I prefer to keep it out completely.

If anyone needs any questions answered feel free. I spent a week educating myself before ordering and found out a lot.

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Sat Aug 09, 2008 8:35 pm

The picture of the can on my website is distorted making it look shorter. I forgot to resize it in Photoshop and just narrowed it for the site. Sorry about the confusion and I will fix it.

You can also mount a can above, in between the speedo and tach by making a short bracket to fasten to the 2 inner speedo and tach bolts under the nuts. I made one from band iron but won't need it unless I do finally add the head gauge.

Take a look http://www.spookytoms.com/SpookyTom-CBXGauges.html to see what the 3 gauge set-up looks like. Refresh your browser to display the change.

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Sun Aug 10, 2008 6:22 am

twinegar, Looks like I too have another project in hand ( thanks to you..

)

I have a GIVI bikini fairing & one would nestle behind quite nicely between the Mickey Mouse ears . Not sure if I'm going the full "starfighter cockpit" layout though. Pressure being my primary concern...

Thanks for the excellent thread.....

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Sun Aug 10, 2008 7:51 am

Pretty funny. I bought some magazines from 78 and 79 on the CBX and read that Honda modeled the X instruments after a fighter plan cockpit which inspired me. If they had widened the bottom of the gauge module, three mini-gauges would have fit nicely and still left room for the idiot lights. I guess they were already in deep price-wise though. Go to Ebay and search VDO Head and look at the pick-up sensor for the Cylinder Head gauge. I like the design because it isn't intrusive. VDO instruments is a top notch company and once they get the bug out of the gauge I want one. I imagine the max heat is developed over the 2 center cylinders.

Talk later as I am on the way to a biker breakfast.

Don #6141 · Post by **Don #6141** » Sun Aug 10, 2008 4:44 pm

twinegar wrote:Take a look http://www.spookytoms.com/SpookyTom-CBXGauges.html to see what the 3 gauge set-up looks like. Refresh your browser to display the change.

That looks way too 'busy' for my taste - I don't have half enough time to look at the gauges I have now ;)

Actually, my first preference would be to utilize the unused square next to the Hi Beam indicator for an idiot light for the charging system (maybe some sort of solid state circuitry to monitor the battery and alternator both) . . . . . and then replace the voltmeter with an oil temp gauge and just leave it at that

Don

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Sun Aug 10, 2008 5:36 pm

If an owner is having problems like I had a couple months ago my set-up would be a good choice and then can be removed until next time. The head temp gauge would be a good choice in warmer regions and could potentially save the motor from seizure. I have been riding all day and was surprised at how cool the engine runs in 80+ temps, 180 to 222. I won't lie, I like techy stuff only if I don't have to permanently alter the oem parts to do it.

I am thinking about looking into having the 79/80 turn signals fabricated. Only the black part. Everyone wants or needs them. I would have to check the patent issue.

EMS · Post by **EMS** » Sun Aug 10, 2008 5:59 pm

Don #6141 wrote: Actually, my first preference would be to utilize the unused square next to the Hi Beam indicator for an idiot light for the charging system (maybe some sort of solid state circuitry to monitor the battery and alternator both) . . . . . and then replace the voltmeter with an oil temp gauge and just leave it at that

Don

This is a good idea. The Voltmeter in an analog form is fairly useless anyway and a light would serve the same purpose.

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Sun Aug 10, 2008 6:00 pm

I would like to see pictures of whatever you guys do.

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:42 am

twinegar wrote:I would like to see pictures of whatever you guys do.

Don #6141 · Post by **Don #6141** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 12:19 pm

twinegar wrote:The head temp gauge would be a good choice in warmer regions and could potentially save the motor from seizure.

I had a Corvair with a stock head temp gauge and I'm pretty sure on a CBX it would be next to worthless. The head only gets hot when you're making lots of power and on an X that's also when you have maximum airflow - On the Corvair, it meant shifting to a lower gear to get the fan speed up. Your oil temp gauge is a much more valuable resource, IMO - It would be my choice if I had to pick just one gauge

I am thinking about looking into having the 79/80 turn signals fabricated. Only the black part. Everyone wants or needs them. I would have to check the patent issue.

Don't worry about copying the OE unit exactly - Just make them very, very similar and improve them a bit. Maybe use a more weather resistant, durable material

Don

EMS · Post by **EMS** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 12:30 pm

Don #6141 wrote:[ The head only gets hot when you're making lots of power and on an X that's also when you have maximum airflow Don

Most of the heat generated by the internal combustion process is dissipated through the exhaust and the cylinder head. That is one reason most air-cooled engines have larger cooling fins on the head than on the cylinders. When Porsche went from air-cooled to liquid cooled race engines, they added liquid cooling only to the head.
But I do agree, an oil temperature gauge is probably a more useful instrument than a head temperature indicator.