I need to adjust mine, and I understand that the factory procedure doesn't always get all the slack out, so I'm gonna remove the valve cover and do it manually.
Do I just loosen the bolt and lock nut a turn or so, and then wiggle the tensioner until it lays firmly against the chain and then lock it down, or is the procedure more complicated than that?
Thanks,
Don
"Manual" cam chain adjustments
-
Don
- Amazing Poster
- Posts: 806
- Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2003 3:13 pm
- Location: Biloxi, Mississippi, USA
- Location: Biloxi, Mississippi, USA
-
E Lee
manual tension adj
Don,
From me the rookie, remember there are two cam chains.
The nut in the front does the smaller chain between cams, the nut behind under the carbs does the bigger drive chain.
Study the exploded view in shop manual get a good shop light to see in there, a long screw driver for lever. What ever you do, make sure No loose nut, washers etc... are anywhere close to this area! You drop something in there you are SOL!
To help figure out what does what, while looking at the chains loosen the nut, you might see what moves inside and this will help determine where to lever for tension, hold and tighten the nut.
Wait for other responses to modify this.
Later,
Ed Lee #5428
From me the rookie, remember there are two cam chains.
The nut in the front does the smaller chain between cams, the nut behind under the carbs does the bigger drive chain.
Study the exploded view in shop manual get a good shop light to see in there, a long screw driver for lever. What ever you do, make sure No loose nut, washers etc... are anywhere close to this area! You drop something in there you are SOL!
To help figure out what does what, while looking at the chains loosen the nut, you might see what moves inside and this will help determine where to lever for tension, hold and tighten the nut.
Wait for other responses to modify this.
Later,
Ed Lee #5428
-
CBXSUDBURY
- New Member & Happy To Be Here
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2003 11:45 pm
- Location: Sudbury, Ontario, Canada
- Location: Sudbury, Ontario, Canada
Here is my 2 cents on this subject. Once you have the valve cover removed, you should also remove the crank cover as well. Loosen the front lock nut and loosen the bolt. The bolt jams a rod to keep the tensioner in place.
The next step, is to turn the crank clockwise so that the cam chain moves along the chain tensioner to tighten up. If it doesn't seem to tighten up, then you can try to move the tensioner to free it up. Keep turning a couple of turns and by keeping the tension on the crank, tighten the front bolt to secure the tensioner and lock the nut.
Works for me all the time and you can physically see the chain nice and snug. Re-install the crank cover and valve cover and you will ride free from chain rattling. This is what I do and it works great.
Yvon
80 and 2 82 CBX Sudbury Ontario
The next step, is to turn the crank clockwise so that the cam chain moves along the chain tensioner to tighten up. If it doesn't seem to tighten up, then you can try to move the tensioner to free it up. Keep turning a couple of turns and by keeping the tension on the crank, tighten the front bolt to secure the tensioner and lock the nut.
Works for me all the time and you can physically see the chain nice and snug. Re-install the crank cover and valve cover and you will ride free from chain rattling. This is what I do and it works great.
Yvon
80 and 2 82 CBX Sudbury Ontario
-
Don
- Amazing Poster
- Posts: 806
- Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2003 3:13 pm
- Location: Biloxi, Mississippi, USA
- Location: Biloxi, Mississippi, USA
Did mine today.
I found that once the tensioner lock bolt is undone, I could "rock" the crankshaft just a little, and it would adust itself. I turned it clockwise for a full turn or so, and then backed it up maybe a 1/4 to a 1/2 degree or so, watching the top of the adjuster (the primary one, for the exhaust cam). When the crank is moved backwards just a tiny bit, the tensioner moves up just a little. Once it saw it just begin to move, I went clockwise with it another full turn, and then repeated the "backup" procedure. I never moved it backwards far enough to put any strain on the tensioner - Just enough to see it begin to move. I did this 3 or 4 times, and then locked it down.
On the intake cam chain, the tensioner is on the bottom, and pretty hard to see, but I used essentially the same procedure, only I watched the top of the chain while "backing" and as soon as it showed ANY slack, I reversed and went around clockwise another full turn.
I guess my "procedure" worked OK - The chains are several times quieter at idle now then they were when I bought the bike.
I know it shouldn't matter much, but I would SWEAR the bike has a few more ponies now that the cam chains aren't slapping around ;)
Rebuilt the front brake calipers today as well - One of them was dragging when I bought the bike. Caught them just in time as there was the beginnings of a good bit of corrosion in the groove under the seals. Not sure I've got 100% of the air out of everything yet, but they'll lock the front wheel just as they are, so I think I'll just ride it and see if any remaining air doesn't work itself out over time.
Learned a good bit about my new bike today - Don't see HOW anyone could own one of these without a factory manual though.
Don
I found that once the tensioner lock bolt is undone, I could "rock" the crankshaft just a little, and it would adust itself. I turned it clockwise for a full turn or so, and then backed it up maybe a 1/4 to a 1/2 degree or so, watching the top of the adjuster (the primary one, for the exhaust cam). When the crank is moved backwards just a tiny bit, the tensioner moves up just a little. Once it saw it just begin to move, I went clockwise with it another full turn, and then repeated the "backup" procedure. I never moved it backwards far enough to put any strain on the tensioner - Just enough to see it begin to move. I did this 3 or 4 times, and then locked it down.
On the intake cam chain, the tensioner is on the bottom, and pretty hard to see, but I used essentially the same procedure, only I watched the top of the chain while "backing" and as soon as it showed ANY slack, I reversed and went around clockwise another full turn.
I guess my "procedure" worked OK - The chains are several times quieter at idle now then they were when I bought the bike.
I know it shouldn't matter much, but I would SWEAR the bike has a few more ponies now that the cam chains aren't slapping around ;)
Rebuilt the front brake calipers today as well - One of them was dragging when I bought the bike. Caught them just in time as there was the beginnings of a good bit of corrosion in the groove under the seals. Not sure I've got 100% of the air out of everything yet, but they'll lock the front wheel just as they are, so I think I'll just ride it and see if any remaining air doesn't work itself out over time.
Learned a good bit about my new bike today - Don't see HOW anyone could own one of these without a factory manual though.
Don