Clutch not disengaging

[sixinoz]

I put a new clutch in about 300km ago. New friction plates and new Honda metal plates plus new Honda springs. As far as I can tell everything went back in correctly including the different bolts on the lifter plate. Soaked the plates in oil before installing them. Clutch is adjusted per the manual - 1 turn anti clockwise on the adjuster screw from meeting resistance. Clutch lever has the correct amount of free play. When cold the bike goes into gear and turns the rear wheel on the stand and it cannot be stopped by hand. When off the stand the bike pulls forward. This happens even when the bike is started the next day after a ride. When hot the clutch seems fine and gears engage ok even from neutral.
I thought it might need a bit of "running in" but it should be disengaging fully by now.
Any ideas before I take the cover off to check what the problem might be?

[daves79x]

It may get a little better, but many CBXs give a little 'lurch' forward when first engaging the gears. And if it sits for any period of time, it will take two or three tries to release. I don't think you did anything wrong. I did the exact same rebuild on my '79, using all Honda parts, many years ago and have the same situation you describe. I've never rebuilt a clutch, using Honda parts or aftermarket, that worked as buttery smooth as they did from the factory. Can't tell you why.

Dave

[sixinoz]

Thanks for the reply, Dave.

Just to make sure I stripped the clutch down again and checked for all the washers etc and correct installation. Everything good but it is still dragging. To see how much better it is when hot I went for a ride and as soon as I got back put the bike on the centre stand engaged 1st and turned the back wheel. Much better hot but still drags a little and nowhere near as free as in neutral. Just wondered if this is normal and is it doing the gearbox any harm by having a bit of drag at every gear change?
Has anyone checked the specs (thickness)of EBC plates to see if they are the cause?

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

No info on EBC clutch plates but yes to it being a common, minor annoyance.
Some more info. viewtopic.php?f=25&t=10178

[daves79x]

Miss-read your original post. I thought you also put in Honda fiber plates. Yes, many aftermarket plates cause the clutch to drag. The only ones I've found that don't are the ones TIMS sells. Don't know what actual brand they are. I've used two or three of them and have noticed no drag. I really thought your complaint was the clunk and lurch you had when first engaging a gear from cold. All you can do now for the drag is tighten up on the free play as much as you can and still get engagement.

Dave

[sixinoz]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Seems very common "problem"
At the risk of starting up an oil thread, has anyone noticed a difference with fully synthetic oils on the clutch drag issue?

[Jeff Bennetts]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Seems very common "problem"
At the risk of starting up an oil thread, has anyone noticed a difference with fully synthetic oils on the clutch drag issue?

I'm not sure if synthetics will help the clutch lurching problem but it will make the clutch slip, when you don't want it to and you might also have a few oil weeps you never had before!

[Larry Zimmer]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Seems very common "problem"
At the risk of starting up an oil thread, has anyone noticed a difference with fully synthetic oils on the clutch drag issue?

I'm not sure if synthetics will help the clutch lurching problem but it will make the clutch slip, when you don't want it to and you might also have a few oil weeps you never had before!

Not to mention a few folks who have reported starter issues when using 100% synthetic

[JoeReid]

I have a '82 Pro-Link that is box stock. When it is cold the clutch drags but it will release enough to be able to push the bike in gear. When up to operating temperature, with the engine running I can't shift from 1st or 2nd into neutral after more than 10 seconds with the lever pulled all the way to the grip. It seems that the plates may be warped because after riding a while (clutch engaged) I can come to a stop and can shift from 2nd or 1st gear into neutral but if i wait more than 5 to 10 seconds there is enough drag so I can't shift into neutral unless I turn the engine off. All the clutch adjustments are as per the factory manual and I had been using Honda oil up until the last 5 years during which I switched to Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 full synthetic because it has more zinc and phosphorus than any other oil I've found. I have noticed no difference in clutch drag related to the change in oil. The clutch always engages smoothly as long as you are in first gear before you come to a stop and I have never noticed any slip even at the high torque point in 5th gear. I have not noticed any increase in oil leaks either. My only oil leak is a very slight weep from the front cam chain tensioner adjusting bolt which I wipe after each ride. Dave, I read what you said about clutch plates from Tim's not dragging and I'm considering replacing mine. I'm looking for opinions, would you make the change or just ride the bike as is? Thanks for reading this.

Joe

[tazz]

Hi Guys since we are here about the clutch what is the life of the clutch plates

[Larry Zimmer]

Tazz -- don't know about plate life. Much depends upon use. Many highway miles, probably a lifetime. More stop-and-go, something less. Hard starts with serious slipping, even less.


Joe -- don't know what Dave would say. Me, I would replace the plates; or, at least pull them to inspect to identify the issue. My thought is that something isn't right. Adjustments would be first thought (and you mentioned that is to-the-book); plates would be second. Oil is oil; although, a bit of zinc, etc. is good for gear wear.

[desertrefugee]

I did the clutch rubber mod last year and inspected the plates at the time. I thought they looked nearly new. I was disappointed to encounter significant slippage after just over 500 miles. I replaced the plates with the kit TIMS sells and couldn't be happier. As noted above, I don't have any drag at all. And even more importantly - no slippage.

(And I do not baby my machine).

[Larry Zimmer]

I did the clutch rubber mod last year and inspected the plates at the time. I thought they looked nearly new. I was disappointed to encounter significant slippage after just over 500 miles. I replaced the plates with the kit TIMS sells and couldn't be happier. As noted above, I don't have any drag at all. And even more importantly - no slippage.

(And I do not baby my machine).

Great!! Thanks for the feedback/input. Helps others much.

[tazz]

OK guys i order my clutch and drive plate from TIMS like to ask does the have done the clutch job on the book manual page 8-2 went you remove the clutch cover do you need to touch the pulse generator ( I hope NOT) and on the cover page 8-3 do you have to do any adjusting to the clutch lifter shaft and adjusting arm or do you just remove the cover and reinstall it also is this a diff. job thank for any help you guys can give me I was hope to do the job my self and NOT take the bike in to have then do job for me.

[tevan]

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