Update RH Kill/Start Switch Post


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divan
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Update RH Kill/Start Switch Post

Post by divan »

Thought I should update the earlier post with some new information. I decided to go ahead and get a new Honda OEM switch, mainly out of curiosity. I got the '82 CB650 switch (pn 35130-463-505) from Hondapartshouse (around $100 with ship). The good news is that this switch has a longer wire harness than the used switch I reported on earlier (see photos below). In fact, this new part's harness is pretty close to the same length as the '79 switch harness, making it interchangeable, except for the coupler sizes. No need to lengthen the wires. Swap the 0.110 coupler and terminals for a 0.250 coupler and terminals and the thing is a bolt-on replacement. I don't know why or when Honda made the change to the longer harness or even if any switch one might buy would also have this longer harness -- maybe they changed it when they unified the part numbers, or in some later version of the part manufacturing.
A couple of other observations about this new switch: 1) wires in the harness have been "upgraded" to newer (1980's) thin-wall PVC cable, as opposed to the older standard wall PVC insulation in the '79 CBX harness (used throughout the '79 CBX harness). While the original cables are Sumitomo AV no.2, 11/32 cables (11 strands , each size 0.32mm) these newer cables are Sumitomo AVSSC -f, coded 0.75 f (f is for "flexible") 19/23 (0.23mm). Both are AWG 16 equivalents, so no change there; but the AVSSC cables have a little lower amp rating at higher operating temperatures. Probably not an issue, so long as you don't run high watt headlights without a relay, or don't have serious voltage drops in the ignition circuit.
2) the sliding and stationary contacts in both switch units (headlight/start & kill/run) are no longer solid brass as in the original switches. The sliding contacts are probably made of palladium or a palladium alloy, common in modern DC low-voltage switches and relays. This would actually be a bit of an improvement over the older copper, as palladium is less prone to corrosion (the dull brownish-red color we see on copper wire, etc.).
One final note: whether rehabbing an old switch or swapping out for one of these OEM or aftermarket switches, it's probably a good idea to lubricate the sliding switch contacts. While the original switches were lubricated, this later OEM switch and the aftermarket switches I've seen (and BTW this includes things like the EMGO ignition switches) are not lubricated. Two good reasons to lubricate: 1) it's been pretty thoroughly demonstrated that bare contacts, when closed, actually have slightly more resistance than properly lubricated contacts, and 2) lubricating contacts reduces drag and wear between the contact surfaces. The key here is to use a very small amount of lubricant -- just a light skim on each surface. And of course, use the right lubricant. In the case of these contacts (copper or palladium), a dielectric (non-conducting) lubricant is critical. Ordinary dielectric grease is OK, but it's silicone-based and under high heat silicone will "migrate" and degrade into silicon oxide -- ie., sand. Not a likely scenario in these switches, but maybe not worth the risk. Non-silicone based contact lubricants are harder to find, though. Two that I've used are SuperLube multipurpose grease which is PTFE based (not their dielectric grease, which is silicone), very slippery and won't migrate; and Electrolube's CG60 contact grease, which has a PAO (synthetic polymer -- think Molycote) base and is specifically formulated as a contact lubricant. All of these have an NLGI consistency of about 1, which is very thin -- just what's needed. And all are compatible with the plastic the housings are made from.
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Dick Sullivan

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FalldownPhil
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Re: Update RH Kill/Start Switch Post

Post by FalldownPhil »

Thank You !!
When you are up to your ass in alligators it is sometimes difficult
to remember that your objective was to drain the swamp !!

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NobleHops
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Re: Update RH Kill/Start Switch Post

Post by NobleHops »

Outstanding post.
Nils Menten
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)

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