CBX won't start...

[dramacydal]

A couple weeks ago I was cruising on Hwy 101. Everything was working great. I stopped to refill my tank. After I refilled my tank I turned the key to the ON position, the indicator lights and gauges lit up. I set the switch to RUN and pressed the START button and that's when everything went south. As soon as I pressed the START button everything just died. I lost all electrical power. I turned the key to the OFF and then back to the ON position and pressed the START button again and nothing happened. I pushed my bike to the nearest parking space. I immediately checked my fuses. My main fuse was still good as well as the fuses in the fuse box. Fortunately, a buddy called soon after I was stranded and was able to haul my bike back into my garage.

I have searched the forum the past two weeks. Probable causes are the regulator/rectifier, battery, ignition switch, rotor, and bad connectors. My battery and rotor are fine. I installed a new ignition switch but that didn't solve the problem. I tested the regulator/rectifier for continuity per the manual and I was getting no readings. I ordered a new regulator/rectifier hoping that will resolve the problem. I'm planning to pull the main wiring hiring harness out and doing a thorough visual inspection. I'm new to the CBX world so any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Jim-Jim]

As I understand it, you have NO power anywhere. (?) You didn't say how you know the battery is fine but here's a definite check.
One of the simplest circuits on the CBX is the starter circuit (to troubleshoot, that is). Put the 'kill' switch 'off' (engine won't run; kills the ignition).
With the battery mounted, take an OLD (sacrificial), OLD screwdriver ( big one) and, carefully, stick it across the two terminals of the start relay. Don't worry about a spark, just hold it firmly, not timidly.
This will directly connect the battery to the starter. That should work - the starter should turn - if it doesn't, that battery is flat dead (unless one of the two wires involved are broken - doubtful).
If it does turn (healthily), the battery is fine - work from there with a voltmeter to all points involved in the wiring harness. Follow the wiring diagram if you have one; without one it's pretty hard but there is help here. The best place to start is the 'Start' circuit; you said you replaced the ignition switch so I'd look for a path from the 'Start' switch to the 'Start Relay'.
Etc, etc, etc.

[Rick Pope]

You did check the fuse behind the right sidecover........... the one made of lead, that will corrode and crack in such a manner as to look fine until you touch it.

[Larry Zimmer]

Sounds to me like sudden death battery failure. Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals with the ignition switch off. If it reads about 12.5, proceed to turn the ignition on. If it still reads 11+, proceed. (If not, get a new battery.) If 11+, press starter button. If voltmeter goes to near zero, or zero, dead battery. I had this happen to me exactly as it did to you. (I rode 125 miles, no problem, stopped for gas, pushed the starter button -- nothing. Was dead battery. I was lucky to find a Goldwing battery at a nearby NAPA shop. Everything fine since then. When mounting your battery, be certain it is very snug. Regular batteries hate vibration. Better yet, get a AGM battery. They take vibration MUCH better than a regular battery.

[NobleHops]

I agree, sounds like Sudden Battery Death Syndrome. I also agree, AGM batteries for the win. I have a dandy DieHard AGM in my bike and it fits and works great.

N.

[Quickster2]

Same thing happened to me except I was home when the no start happened (after stalling the bike trying to put it in the trailer) with my new (to me) 1980 last year. It was the battery and after testing the regulator found out it was also bad. Replaced regulator and put in new Big Crank sealed battery all is well.

[dramacydal]

I did as Larry suggested and my volt meter was reading less than 1 volt. I had a spare car battery laying around so I hooked that up to my bike. As soon as I turned the key to the ON position I had power again. I'll get an AGM battery as you guys suggested. Thanks for all the help. I wish I had asked sooner. I guess with my fairing removed this would be a good time to do the naked conversion.

[SteveG]

I am glad you got to the bottom of the matter. Look here for your battery:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=7799

Price is $3.00 more now than in the thread, but still a great battery. I use the Big Cranks in both my 82 CBX and 81 985F, and have zero complaints.

Steve