wont start ive run out of ideas.

[wyly]

You need to combine the threads - this is getting confusing.

Dave

Dont how I got two threads.
and I have idea no how to combine or eliminate, but I'll try.

[wyly]

I checked all the float bowls and pulled off all the lines only carb 2 had fuel.

[Mouse]

I was sure you had checked the wires . But i can't count the no# of times i've found something wrong with the thing i checked and re-checked etc. etc.
Good Luck with it.

[EMS]

Any motor that I ever had, including the CBX six and a pressure washer Honda single, ran a couple of rpms when fed starting fluid. Even if the carbs were bone dry.
After you get fuel into all bowls, my guess is, it will still not fire.

[daves79x]

So you need to find out what the fuel delivery problem is first. Did you check for sure the flow from the petcock and for the presence of a vacuum valve on the carbs? There has to be an obvious problem. Maybe floats installed upsidedown - don't laugh, I've seen it. But Mike is correct, I fear you have more than one problem.


Dave

[Mouse]

This is a long shot, but is the pin that drives the advancer in place?
Not sure if that would stop it from starting but....

[wyly]

I was sure you had checked the wires . But i can't count the no# of times i've found something wrong with the thing i checked and re-checked etc. etc.
Good Luck with it.

I've done that too, "measure twice, cut once" but measuring twice doesn't help if you measure it the same way twice...
and it's not impossible to have two issues, one masking the other. Wiring and fuel. Looks like a fuel/carb issue but I should have got a reaction when I sprayed starter fluid in the air cleaner as i hit the starter button..

[wyly]

So you need to find out what the fuel delivery problem is first. Did you check for sure the flow from the petcock and for the presence of a vacuum valve on the carbs? There has to be an obvious problem. Maybe floats installed upsidedown - don't laugh, I've seen it. But Mike is correct, I fear you have more than one problem.


Dave

petcock is clear.
Removed drain lines from carbs all clear.
if there was no vuccum valve on the bike when I bought in april of 78 I never installed one after.
Turned on petcock again and only #2 carb has fuel in bowl.

Upside down floats is fixable but a lot of work, I just spent 12 hours puttuing it altogether.
Can I take of #1 or #6 bowls while they're in place?

only good thing about this is checking over my bill from the shop they forgot to charge for the carb cleaning.

[wyly]

Any motor that I ever had, including the CBX six and a pressure washer Honda single, ran a couple of rpms when fed starting fluid. Even if the carbs were bone dry.
After you get fuel into all bowls, my guess is, it will still not fire.

I may try it again but instead of spraying into the air cleaner I'll remove some plugs and spray directly into the cylinders.

[daves79x]

How are the bowls vented? I've seen guys install solid rubber tubes on all vent connections, effectively preventing fuel from flowing, but some still should. Should be something obvious to see here.

Dave

[wyly]

How are the bowls vented? I've seen guys install solid rubber tubes on all vent connections, effectively preventing fuel from flowing, but some still should. Should be something obvious to see here.

Dave

We are talking about the 6 armed octopus underneath? I pulled those all off and they were open.

[daves79x]

No, those are the bowl drains. The bowl venting system connects the vent holes in each carb body through 2 common manifolds heading towards the center. Each side originally had a vent 'T' with a hose to atmosphere.

I know you paid someone some large $$$ to do all this for you and hoped you didn't have to deal with or even understand much of this - it should have just worked. But it doesn't. If you are willing to learn a bit about how everything goes together, we'll certainly help you figure it out.

Either something is holding fuel from flowing through the carb manifold via a blockage, or the needles are stuck tight in there seats, or are being held there due to incorrect assembly. Or the bowls aren't venting. How deep are you willing to dig to find it?

Mike is right, it should have at least fired on ether. If your static timing is correct - did you check that yet? - I'd probably not turn it over until I checked the cam timing. Bent valves will result if that's off by much, but that would have already occurred by the amount of cranking you've already done.

The spark plug wires just have to be paired correctly to the coils. Both fire at the same time. You just have to make sure it goes 1-6, 3-4, 2-5, left to right and you have the primary side wires connected correctly.

Dave

[EMS]

I may try it again but instead of spraying into the air cleaner I'll remove some plugs and spray directly into the cylinders.

Not sure that I would do that. The fluid washes off the oil on the cylinder walls. Besides, it is not the pure fluid that ignites, but an air-fluid vapor. Taking the air cleaner element out and spraying it liberally, yields best results.

[wyly]

No, those are the bowl drains. The bowl venting system connects the vent holes in each carb body through 2 common manifolds heading towards the center. Each side originally had a vent 'T' with a hose to atmosphere.

I know you paid someone some large $$$ to do all this for you and hoped you didn't have to deal with or even understand much of this - it should have just worked. But it doesn't. If you are willing to learn a bit about how everything goes together, we'll certainly help you figure it out.

Either something is holding fuel from flowing through the carb manifold via a blockage, or the needles are stuck tight in there seats, or are being held there due to incorrect assembly. Or the bowls aren't venting. How deep are you willing to dig to find it?

Mike is right, it should have at least fired on ether. If your static timing is correct - did you check that yet? - I'd probably not turn it over until I checked the cam timing. Bent valves will result if that's off by much, but that would have already occurred by the amount of cranking you've already done.

The spark plug wires just have to be paired correctly to the coils. Both fire at the same time. You just have to make sure it goes 1-6, 3-4, 2-5, left to right and you have the primary side wires connected correctly.

Dave

As far as I know the carbs were never split so those tubes should still be original. The carbs were opened up and given a sonic bath and he installed part of a keyster rebuild kit that I supplied. The tees on the vent lines were torn and had fallen off, he said the carbs would work without them. I pushed them back on regardless, I figured even torn they would help keep water out.
After the carbs were supposedly cleaned I was told the accelerator pump wasn't working so I bought a new kit and it was installed. It still didn't work, i was told they were getting a spray in each carb when he operated the carbs manually but not when the accelerator pump was activated. I got another tech at the shop to clean out the check valves.

It was always my intention to learn and do it myself but if did that it would take me a couple of years before I was riding again. So thought I'd pay someone else to the bulk of the work so I could ride this summer. I've invested a couple hundred in tools and books from mike nixon so I can do my own servicing.

Plug wires are paired correctly to the correct coils left to right. Primary wires, are those the wires that go to the coils? I installed new dyna coils from CBX Performance and followed their install instructions. The original wires were labeled 1, 2, 3, from left to right, I left those in place so I wouldn't get them mixed up and the new wiring to the coils plug right into the old. When it didnt fire up after spraying in ether electrical was my first thought, but coils and plug wires looks correct. I haven't tried a static test as yet I'm still reading up on that so I understand what I'm doing, I'll do that this morning.

If the problems lay in the cams then the damage is done. I have some confidence it's not. The guy who did the the rebuild didn't know as much as he thought about the CBX but he's built and raced drag bikes for a few decades so unless he has the early unrevised service manual he should have the cams in correctly. If not I'll be paying him a visit to reclaim my losses.

[wyly]

I may try it again but instead of spraying into the air cleaner I'll remove some plugs and spray directly into the cylinders.

Not sure that I would do that. The fluid washes off the oil on the cylinder walls. Besides, it is not the pure fluid that ignites, but an air-fluid vapor. Taking the air cleaner element out and spraying it liberally, yields best results.

Okay. I thought I sprayed in a lot but maybe I didn't, I'll try it again.